Trident can supply them. You will need to drill holes for the screw bolts.
I was not inferring that the wheel rims should be neglected to such an extent that they rust through and collapse.
POR 15 is a better paint than Hammerite.
Guide on how to use…[Read more]
As you have found out, the paint on trailer wheels is very thin and does little to prevent rusting.
Some wax polish may delay the inevitable.
This leaves you with the choice of respraying with primer and top coat or use something like Hammerite or chassis paint.
Rounding of any sharp edges on the rim will help the paint adhere for longer.
Newtown River IOW
Wotton Creek IOW
Ashlett Creek Southampton Water
Ashlett Creek Southampton Water
………visit 2 hours either side of high water.
The posts mark the deeper water channel but the Wayfarer can cuts across the…[Read more]
The DIY method will require degreasing with solvent, the use of an etched primer followed by paint.
No guarantee as to how long the finish can be retained even with the use of epoxy paint.
For a good finish, you will need the assistance of the professionals to reanodise.
The problem here is that only about 2 in the country have a bath that can…[Read more]
No experience of the type you have mentioned but due to the lack of response I will share some thoughts.
In my opinion, the majority prefer the shoe type as it gives a very neat finish when the outboard is not in use.
The spring loaded type will do the job. However, the draw back as I see it, will be when the bracket is not in use.
As it is not…[Read more]
Well, there is offshore and being way offshore in the middle of nowhere.
Frank did voyages across the North Sea to Norway and Denmark with no expectations of quick help if things went wrong.
As such, he would have to cater for all eventualities as best he could.
In a storm force 9, it would be essential to be tied to the dinghy.
Being permanently…[Read more]
The Super Shute 90 requires a hole size of 117mm x 59mm.
The Elvstrom/Andersen requires a hole size of 110mm x 54mm.
Choose the one that is closest to your existing aperture size.
The bailers are not subject to wear and tear in normal use so either material will be suitable.
I have not used the plastic type for comparison but I suspect the SS may…[Read more]
Welcome to the Forum.
Power wise, something between 2hp and 3.5hp will be sufficient.
The more powerful are normally heavier, so something to bear in mind whilst carrying or if fitting at sea.
Standard or short shafted engines are normally suitable.
New outboards are now four stroke engines as 2 stroke have been discontinued due to environmental…[Read more]
Trident chandlers show both types as being fitted to the Wayfarer hull.
By the size of the opening in your hull, then the Super Shute 90 appears to be the correct one.
The Trident price is also cheaper but it may still be worth searching for the best deal.
I think most of us have found a cleat not releasing as quickly as we would like on occasions.
I use the standard fitting as shown here.
Mine is mounted on the side deck. I use a Genoa sheet that is the same thickness as the…[Read more]
Fitting a topping lift will depend on how often you wish to drop the mainsail whilst on board and the space available.
Very useful if you wish to erect some form of cover whilst anchored.
Ummmmmmmmm … almost convinced myself to fit one!
Why do you not cleat the genoa, or do you sail in a very gusty area?
I mainly sail in The Solent and have never really thought about not cleating the genoa, even in F5 touching F6.
I do hold the uncleated mainsail sheet ready for easing when necessary, by which time my crew will have responded on the genoa if required.
Having check out the…[Read more]
I think most alloy masts of that era had an E section.
Type I mast was tapered towards the top and the mast was sealed in an effort to prevent inversion and halyards ran down the luff groove.
It also had an adjustable gooseneck, so no Cunningham was essential.
Type II mast was similar but not sealed. The gooseneck was fixed and halyards ran down…[Read more]
No expert but here is my view.
Your spreaders are short in length but the distance between the shrouds at the spreader is 965mm, which is the recommended distance.
In achieving that correct distance with the shorter spreader length, the spreaders have been angled further forward than normal.
By doing this, it fails to exert sufficient pressure to…[Read more]
Removing the mast foot is probably the best method to sort out the problem. Should not be too difficult.
Also check that the mainsail can move up the mast groove guide easily. If not, then some wax or sail lubrication will help.
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