• That’s good Sylvain – send a photo if you think of it!

  • I think I’ve misled you. I don’t think you can just fit the adjustment brackets – they would come as part of a new pair of spreaders. I meant to say that it would possibly only be the fitting of those brackets to the mast which would necessitate any drilling, if you were able to retain the main bracket. And looking again at the photos I’m not so…[Read more]

  • Hi Ali,

    My non-expert take would be that you have three options:-

    • Adjust the existing spreaders to get them as close to the specified measurements as they can be.
    • Modify them, perhaps re-drilling as part of the process.
    • Replace the spreaders with some more easily adjustable ones

    It all depends where your priorities lay in your ongoing…[Read more]

  • Dave Barker replied to the topic Spreader set-up in the forum Technical 2 years ago

    OK – well I’m baffled by that. Just playing around with a pencil and paper for a few minutes and guessing at the diameter of the mast, I’ve ended up with figures much closer to the published ones.

    Can I just make sure we’re talking about the same dimensions – here’s a rough sketch of where the measurements are taken:-

    Does that look about right?

  • Dave Barker replied to the topic Spreader set-up in the forum Technical 2 years ago

    Hi Mark – have you checked out the rig tuning article in the Tech section (here)? It’s pretty detailed, but the key points to note are that the measurements are a guide, and it’s the outcome which is important.

    The spreader length and angle can only provide the pre-bend you’re looking for if everything else is correct too. For example, the rig…[Read more]

  • Hi Sylvain,

    I used a product from a UK company, Seals Direct – http://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/shopping.asp?intDepartmentId=1#15

    The link should take you to the section “Plain Expanded Neoprene – Strip”, and you can then select the correct width and thickness. Delivery to France is available for about €8 (look under “General Information” at the top…[Read more]

  • Mike, this sounds a very unpleasant experience and it’s good to hear that you were/are OK. This is a subject that deserves to be thoroughly discussed, so thank you for describing your experience. There is a written article by John Mellor in the Technical section of this website (you need to be logged-in) with a lot of useful information about…[Read more]

  • We went up to Morwellham Quay about three years ago (and may well do so again next year, as I’m thinking of organising another cruise). There was plenty of time to look around the various exhibits etc. before taking the ebb back down the river to a quieter, wider anchorage .

    The tidal limit is about a mile or so further upstream, but I haven’t…[Read more]

  • It was overzealous trimming on my part via style.css which I’ve now corrected. I hope that’s what you were looking for. Cheers!

  • My only comment would be that the back tank perhaps leaves you standing further forward in the boat than you really want to be. If you’re kneeling on the back tank you’re in a less efficient stance. (Standing on the back tank doesn’t bear thinking about). Good question though. Anyone?

  • I tend to use whipping twine to sew the end of an old halyard to the new one. The two ends are in effect butted together, sewn as John (1162) describes, with 4 or 5 stitches across the join and a single layer of gaffer tape over the lot to help prevent snags. If there isn’t room to pass this slightly fattened bulge through a sheave that you can’t…[Read more]

  • I tend to use whipping twine to sew the end of an old halyard to the new one. The two ends are in effect butted together, sewn as John (1162) describes, with 4 or 5 stitches across the join and a single layer of gaffer tape over the lot to help prevent snags. If there isn’t room to pass this slightly fattened bulge through a sheave that you can’t…[Read more]

  • I tend to use whipping twine to sew the end of an old halyard to the new one. The two ends are in effect butted together, sewn as John (1162) describes, with 4 or 5 stitches across the gap and a very short piece of gaffer tape over the lot to help prevent snags. If there isn’t room to pass this slightly fattened bulge through a sheave that you…[Read more]

  • Hi Jeremy,

    I won’t attempt to advise, but I have used both patterns of rudder blade, so I’m aware of the main practical differences between them.

    The first difference that is immediately noticeable when helming is the lighter feel to the deep, narrow blade. This is unsurprising, considering the shape, but very obvious in comparison with the…[Read more]

  • Hi Jeremy,

    I won’t attempt to advise, but I have used both patterns of rudder blade, so I’m aware of the main practical differences between them.

    The first difference that is immediately noticeable when helming is the lighter feel to the deep, narrow blade. This is unsurprising, considering the shape, but very obvious in comparison with the…[Read more]

  • Well done Nick!

    Here it is in case anyone else wants to watch too:-

  • Dave Barker replied to the topic Everyone is gone! in the forum General 2 years, 10 months ago

    Hi Trevor,

    Sometimes it seems pretty quiet here, but the only way that will change is if we all make the effort to keep using the website and the forum.

    Hot off the press the Entry List page has been populated!

    I know Arun YC is working hard to make the Nationals a memorable event – I almost wish I was going.

    Best wishes!

  • Briefly, the uphaul supports the weight of the pole, thus controlling its height. The elastic in the downhaul allows the uphaul to be eased slightly without introducing slack (which would risk releasing the loop from the pole ramp). The pole will not “sky” because the freedom of movement in the elastic is limited by the stopper knot, but in…[Read more]

  • Hi John,

    Welcome to the forum!

    Most chandlers should be able to sort you out with everything you need for the centre main conversion. Exactly which bits you’ll require will depend on what’s already on the boat – I’m thinking of mounting blocks etc. (Sometimes there is a square of hardwood, sometimes a moulded grp platform etc). Through-bolting…[Read more]

  • Hi John,

    Welcome to the forum!

    Most chandlers should be able to sort you out with everything you need for the centre main conversion. Exactly which bits you’ll require will depend on what’s already on the boat – I’m thinking of mounting blocks etc. (Sometimes there is a square of hardwood, sometimes a moulded grp platform etc). Through-bolting…[Read more]

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