Ken, you should be able to copy a picture then just paste it in.
Sometimes new centreboards will have an oversized epoxy plug to drill the bolt hole through, otherwise if the bolt goes through timber it will quickly wear any varnish away. Use the old board as a template for the hole position, check the existing board to see if the hole is…[Read more]
Bob Harland replied to the topic Which "Sikaflex" to use for sealing buoyancy tank leaks? in the forum Technical 3 weeks ago
Hi, I think it would be 291i you are looking for, a flexible sealant rather than an adhesive.
I would also try to find where your leak is first – rather than just sealing any gaps and hoping the problem is addressed. Or is there an obvious damaged area? And I guess the hatch cover has a good seal – that’s often the culprit?
To be effective the…[Read more]
Hi Ken, not quite sure from your description what the damage is – around the pivot hole? – in which case an epoxy infill might be an option, you could do that with a bolt in place to retain the hole or drill a new hole if you have the equipment to do that.
If the bolt is in place be sure to have it in something that will release – polythene…[Read more]
Hi Dave, there is a nice sequence of photos on this page of the WIT showing a minimal setup for jib sheets
Sometimes the fairlead/jammer is mounted on a track, and sometimes on the sidedeck rather than the sidebench.
I have seen boats with…[Read more]
There is a bit of advice on this subject at WIT;
Quite a few people selling hatch seals for boats, try and source something close to the dimensions of the existing seal/gasket. As long as there is some compression on the seal, fitting it to the hatch is…[Read more]
Hi, I would avoid screwing into epoxy that has not set – because it might be difficult to remove the screws at a later date.
I suggest removing all the screws and traveller, for any enlarged holes see if there is any loose material that can be removed then fill with expoxy. When the epoxy has set drill a suitable sized fresh hole for the screws.…[Read more]
- I would suggest a wooden backing piece is used, then the washers. Size the timber so that flexing of the GRP is minimum. And use some sealant to bed the eyes on the outer side and perhaps on the inner side too for the timber.
Hi, I had not heard of Mantus anchors until I read your post which prompted some research.
The videos are impressive and I have no doubt that when set properly the 1kg would hold a Wayfarer. You may struggle on rocky ground as this review shows;
The Mantus anchor is meant to be kept in…[Read more]
Hi, we had a W World 10 years ago with asymmetric. As I recall there was a control line from inboard end of the pole forward to a turning block and then back to a clam cleat. This would extend the pole out. But I guess you already worked that out.
We found the asymmetric a useful sail in light airs cruising.
Most of the Wayfarer info is for…[Read more]
this is probably the most useful post on this topic;
We cruise a lot but manage without an outboard – I understand normal practice is to put the outboard on the bracket at the start of your cruise and leave it there sailing or motoring. It should be clear of…[Read more]
If you want a mast crutch for going under bridges on the Norfolk Broads it will need to be much lower than the tent boom crutch on the transom.
The mast will need to be near horizontal to avoid fouling the burgee on the bridge! You might find that the mast will rest on the spreaders ok. Sometimes the boom crutch will do if it is rested on the…[Read more]
In a normal setup the boom should not be so low that it is difficult for the crew to get under it when tacking or gybing.
When sheeted in if the boom is close to the transom then there is a problem with the setup.
Some points to watch for;
- make sure the main is hoisted to the very top of the mast – use a bobble on the halyard rather than a…
Hi Jesper, welcome to the Wayfarer. I hope you enjoy learning to sail it. You have some fantastic sailing in Denmark. We have been to Denmark with our Wayfarer 3 times and next week we visit again.
You may know there is a Wayfarer Association in Denmark http://wayfarer.dk
Hi Sylvain, this link may help, bear in mind it is a few years old now.
Modern booms will have blocks already build in, which you can see on the close up photos. You may be able to modify your existing boom to achieve something…[Read more]
Hi Sylvain, yes these days roller reefing is a bit of history, when I first started sailing Wayfarers 30 years ago roller reefing was sometimes seen. People would roll a sail bag into the sail to make a boom vang. But “jiffy” reefing (or slab reefing) is normal now and has been for sometime. Your boat number 3380 would certainly date from a time…[Read more]
Hi Sylvain, It would be used for a topping lift – that is a rope holding up the boom when the sail is lowered. These are normal on a yacht, but not used very often on dinghies. The topping lift would go to a block on the mast and then down to a cleat at the base of the mast.
The topping lift would take the weight of the boom when the sail is down…[Read more]
Our oars are 2.61m (about 8′ 6” ) it is the longest that will stow in a wooden wayfarer. You might just manage this in a GRP boat or not – as the thwart is thicker.
Rowing with one oar works quite well, for instance to supplement speed from the sails when the breeze is light. Also two people can row side by side as long as the tiller is held…[Read more]
- Load More