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  • #29631
    BluTak
    Participant

    As I said mine leaked through keelband  screwholes. We were camping in at the original  golfe du semaine festival and the leak appeared through the wooden cleat screws which the toestraps are strapped to. Our sleeping bags were getting wet. I fixed it as a temporary repair using “underwater epoxy stick” and then sorted it permanently (I hope!) when we came back to the uk. Once it’s upside down it’s not such a big job. At least no one will see your handiwork unless you capsize. Good luck. It is nice to have a boat that doesn’t leak! While it’s upside down you could go the whole hog and refurbish the bailers which can also leak. You can get new rubbers for them from chandlers

    #29450
    BluTak
    Participant

    Sounds good! I assume this wood is inside the hull in the corner against the case? Mine doesn’t have any wood there ( I don’t think!) so I wonder if the wood has been added because of a leak or if yours is of a different construction. I have reinforced mine with some strips of glass and epoxy. Good luck turning it over, it’s heavy, and remember to protect the shroud plates. It would be good to see a photo. Incidentally after fairly major work I painted the inside of my hull with white International Danboline bilge paint and it has stood up pretty well.

    let us know how you get on!

    #29223
    BluTak
    Participant

     

    Ian I think I may know what’s wrong!

    I had the same problem with my boat.  The whole top of the case flexed if you put your foot against it and the two halves of the open slot could be squeezed together. All this flexing can obviously lead to cracking and leaks at the keel. With the boat upside down I made a laminated beam from 4mm plywood as shown on the photos. This goes from end to end of the case. I made it first embedded in polythene so that it was the correct shape. I then took it out and cleaned it up before epoxying it in place after removing the rotten wood. This means that you have two beams either side of the case running full length. You could fashion the beams from wood (eg oak) but I found it easier to laminate as I could borrow a lot of clamps. If you coat it fully in epoxy it should not rot again. This is not such a daunting task when the boat is upside down.

    Another job I did at the same time was to strengthen the mast step. I fitted stainless steel plates outside the cheeks as shown on the photos and carefully fitted a large piece of wood between the keel and front of the centre plate case. This is a tight fit to ensure that the mast foot weight is being taken by the keel . If you look really carefully at the photo you can see that the gell coat has cracked across the front of the slot. This is caused I think by the mast foot driving down the front of the case and is why I have inserted a wooden block.  It is probably worth strengthening the keel at this point with some resin impregnated tape but be careful to leave the “limber holes” for the water to drain through.

    You can see the stainless plates and resin/glass strengthening of the keel in the photo. The block of wood is partly hidden by the toestraps (which are screwed  to it)

    If the boat is like mine you will find that the mast cheeks and step arrangement is not fastened to the foredeck it just sits in a recess and can be wiggled out. Mine was cracked when I took it out but the plates and bolts hold it together

    I have no leaks and the case doesn’t flex. I don’t apply the recommended tension to the rig as I am frightened of the mast foot being driven through the bottom of the boat. I do use a highfield lever though and it is a definite effort to tighten it up so I guess I’m around 2/3 recommended tension

    The original glass Wayfarers were built from very heavy laminates before they learned how to make them lighter. This means that there are a lot of older ones around some 50 years old but they are often in need of repair. Since they are pretty solid repairs can be done where a more modern boat would be consigned to the bin. As you’ve probably noticed I’m not too worried about cosmetics! One of the great things about a Wayfarer is that once you have a solid hull you can source nearly all the other bits secondhand for a song. Masts, booms, sails, rudders, centreboards even tents appear as there are quite a few hulls around that people won’t repair

    Anyway once again Good Luck!

     

     

     

    #29204
    BluTak
    Participant

    Apologies – acetone is nail varnish remover, not nail varnish. It used to be easily bought in 1 litre bottles but these days I buy small quantities from cut price chemists.

    #29190
    BluTak
    Participant

    For the next instalment it’s easy ways to make a new mast out of Fosters Beer cans. I miss Swiebertje off this forum. He would have made his from Grolsch bottles and written pages all well thought out as to why they were the best. I got many a good tip off him.

    Good luck

    #29189
    BluTak
    Participant

    My comment about people taking the mick when you have a depth sounder in a dinghy was also serious (and is one reason I have made it removable). But crew are impressed when tacking up a narrow channel and there isn’t much time to tack before the centreboard hits the rocks if it’s windy. You used to be able to buy a hand held sounder but it looked expensive and easy to drop. Also by the time you’d read it you could be well aground. A whisker pole or an oar could also be easy to lose – a bamboo cane (or 2) is definitely preferable!

     

     

     

    #29187
    BluTak
    Participant

    My old fibreglass hull leaked through the screws holding the metal strips to the keel. It’s not easy finding the source of the leaks due to the construction of the keel. You can remove the screws and epoxy the holes before putting them back but you’ll have a job getting the screws out again if you need to. A better approach could be to epoxy the holes then drill and self tap when the epoxy has gone off with a squirt of sealant/ seakaflex. (If you do epoxy the screws in you can try heating them before trying to get them out to soften the epoxy with a big soldering iron)

    Or if the screws still have bite squirt sikaflex in and then replace screws. Probably not easy as the existing screw heads are probably damaged. Definitely replace with new screws!

    Or take the keel bands off. Fill in the hull holes with epoxy and either reposition the holes (what happens to the holes if you fit them “front to back”?) or fit new keel bands. You can buy half round brass a lot cheaper from a steel stockist. Drill the clearance holes in the band after bending or they could kink. When you fix them bed them in with Sikaflex. I put stainless runners on the bilge keels after beefing them up as they always get damaged. Simple if the boat is upside down. Don’t let the boat sit on the bilge keels on the trailer as this is a major source of damage to the stiffeners inside the hull

    Captain Tolley’s creeping crack cure is pretty magic for hairline cracks. The bailers can be another source of leaks. I took mine out and refurbished them and the boat is bone dry now (so far 10 years). You can get new gaskets etc from chandlers

    17mm x 3.5mm nitrile O rings (eBay) should cure any bung Leaks!

    Note that you need to get the holes dry before applying adhesive. Acetone (nail varnish) is pretty good for cleaning holes and can also help dry them as it is soluble with water. Followed by a hot air gun or hair dryer

    a temporary fix is a tube type pump but it’s not good if you sleep on board and it leaks above the bottom boards during the night

    one more warning. If you roll the boat over take care not to damage the stainless shroud plates that stick out and are easily damaged. Stainless work hardens with bending and you can weaken them. Easy enough to avoid with a car tyre carefully placed if you know about it. ( guess how I found out!)

    I hope this helps, good luck

    #29159
    BluTak
    Participant

    I was at my Wayfarer yesterday strengthening the mast step. Here are some pictures of my set up

    Shows Depth Sounder and Transducer. Sounder can be taken off the bulkhead if you don’t need it or get fed up with Piss Takes from people with bamboo sticks!! It is held on with wing nuts and plugs into the transducer. You need 4 holes for bolts + 1 larger one for the plug

    Shows transducer. I had piece of pultruded pipe you can make your own as Kez suggests. Transducer is epoxied in bottom of pipe filling gap between it and hull. Make this joint as thin as possible or there is danger of epoxy exotherming (spontaneously combusting). Also put fibres, cloth silica in to reduce the amount of epoxy. You are effectively just making a thicker hull at this point. You could just epoxy it to the hull but it would be easily damaged and you want it pointing vertically down. You must not get any air bubbles in here or it won’t work. The tube is back filled with Sikaflex (EBT from builders merchants not the expensive one) to protect the shaft etc from damage if it is knocked. You must make it robust if you store clobber near it

    Shows battery box with 9 x AA batteries in old aquapac waterproof case. This is fastened along with the rest of the transducer lead underneath the deck to one of the bolts holding the wooden handles. (You must not shorten the transducer lead so coil it up neatly) A simple switch is fastened in line with the live lead so that you only have it on when you need it. There is a switch on the battery box (ebay) but it is difficult to turn on and off through the polythene

    I find it works very well indeed. I used to have it mounted on the front hatch but it was awkward to see and get at. The sounder comes with a cover which protects it. All the wires etc are out of the weather under the deck. it comes into its own over sandbanks and estuaries. I like to have AA batteries in my gps, vhf and depth sounder as I don’t have to rely on a recharge

    Before anybody asks no I don’t have radar mounted on the starboard bulkhead!!

     

     

    #28979
    BluTak
    Participant

    I too fitted a NASA unit like Peter. The tube is up against the bulkhead about 4” from the keel. The tube is pultruded glasss epoxied in. The transducer is epoxied onto the tube and I think I filled the gap between it and the hull with epoxy too. The cable and power supply (9 aa batteries in a battery holder From eBay) are all tied neatly under the foredeck. The display is mounted on the bulkhead ahead of the front seat. 4 holes for bolts and one for the cable. I take the display and batteries out when i’m not using them eg where the shore is steep sided like the West Coast Scotland and only use it for estuaries, sandbanks, bars etc where I find it very useful. Everyone laughs at it but I wouldn’t be without it E.g. in the middle of Morecambe Bay. You never need to be surprised that the seagulls are walking not swimming again! It’s also handy for anchoring so you easily know how much water will be underneath you when you want to get going again.

    I got mine second hand of eBay. Keep your eyes open. I’m sure someone will use a telescopic paddle!

    #28910
    BluTak
    Participant

    I should have said that my Mark 1 is fibreglass but i’m sure that the same will work with a wooden one. My advice is ring for a sample you should get it next day

    #28909
    BluTak
    Participant

    I used PEN22 neoprene and A262 waterproof glue from Seals Direct who though expensive are very helpful and will send samples which are useful. I used it very successfully on front and rear hatch on my elderly  Mark 1

    Only word of warning is that you need to plan application like a military operation. Once the glue touches IT IS STUCK. Not difficult if you do dry runs preferably with a calm helper before sticking in anger and agree on a procedure. But if you let the seal contact even lightly before you are ready…….

    Hope I haven’t put you off it’s not too bad if you take due care. Good Luck

     

     

    #28852
    BluTak
    Participant

    “Self Amalgamating Tape” but you need to cut it off with a sharp knife if you need to remove it. You wind it on like gaffer tape stretching it as you go and it sets like rubber. Excellent!

    #28465
    BluTak
    Participant

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/dinghy-2-piece-mast/132815064501?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20140107083358%26meid%3D79a9a1a6c1e549fd9430e1366b9686e9%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D192710190288%26itm%3D132815064501&_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850

    I think mast head looks like this (mine isn’t to hand) The top plate is welded on. If you want to stay true you could put out feelers for and old E section gold Proctor mast – doesn’t need to be Wayfarer eg Fireball is fine. Cut the top off it below the sheave and weld it onto yours. You need a decent aluminium welder eg your local sheetmetal works. You could sleeve it if you wanted though a weld should be fine.  Suggest contacting ebay sellers of used dinghy fittings to see if anybody has one and can cut the top off and put it on ebay for you. Otherwise get metal basher to strengthen the fitting you’ve got and put a decent sheave and shaft in it. You can buy sheaves and shafts easy enough or a stainless bolt and spacer would do in place of the shaft. I’m sure its do able but don’t think its a separate fitting like the heel fitting. There must be loads of old/broken gold proctor masts lying around – try any dinghy park! Good luck

    http://www.seldenmast.com/en/products/rigging_hardware/clevis-_and_split_pins-_lock_rings/sheaves.html

    #28176
    BluTak
    Participant

    Hi Boris and Dave it’s not a silly point at all. The last time it leaked it was put up dry. I think it’s probably been running down the mast and then into the rolled up sail where the luff is in contact with the mast. I am hoping that a microfibre cloth may help as will rolling the sail underneath the boom. If I get time I think I’ll have a trial on dry land with it tipped both ways. I think it’s the sail as it didn’t leak when I used to take the the sail off. A bivvy bag is a good idea and I know where I’m can borrow a couple.

    Many Thanks and Merry Xmas!

     

    #28069
    BluTak
    Participant

    Hi Dave as ever you give good advice. I confess I never thought of rolling the sail under the boom though I had thought of slinging the tent underneath! The micofibre cloth sounds like a good idea and yes my boom does stick out though probably not enough to catch all the water I’m getting in the sail. I think most of the water is coming down the mast and into the sail. I’m not sure how it lies – probably stern up when I’m in the pub and stern down when I’m sleeping! I think I’ll think of an extension to cover the tip of the boom.

    Leaving the kicking strap on sounds good as its easy to pull the boom out of the gooseneck.

    It was a lot easier with the old sail as it was fairly quick to put back on the boom and it packed up really small for the night!

    Very Many thanks for your quick response other than that the tent is behaving well. When we were in the Kyles of Bute we met another Wayfarer who had the slab sided version from identical green canvas. His tent was also wearing well and he told me it was one of the first made by Moreland Tarpaulins in London. I bought it second hand in London (£50) some 30 years ago!

     

     

    I may have a trial on the trolley in the rain

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 106 total)