john1162

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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 62 total)
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  • in reply to: Dry buoyancy testing the bow tank. #35286
    john1162
    Participant

    Considering the rules allow for a differential drop of not less than 30 seconds then 5 minutes is very good. The original MK 1 boats had just a rubber bung and they work fine. I have not had mine out for years.

    in reply to: Genoa halyard getting stuck inside mast #35269
    john1162
    Participant

    It sounds like you have hit on the problem. The rope halyard should only be about 5 mm. After a while the eye splice gets frayed and thickens up making it too big to exit the mast. The pulleys where the halyard comes out may also be stuck. Time for a new halyard or re-splice once you force it out.

    in reply to: Sail Logo #35232
    john1162
    Participant

    I have bought them in the past from Pinnel and Bax but you could try any sail maker who makes Wayfarer Sails.

    in reply to: Cruising Storage on a MK2 #35225
    john1162
    Participant

    You can’t have too many Tyga ties!

    in reply to: Cruising Storage on a MK2 #35203
    john1162
    Participant

    Check out Solent Plastics.  solentplastics.co.uk They have a huge range of waterproof containers.

     

    in reply to: W76 #35160
    john1162
    Participant

    The position of the shroud plates are governed by the class rules copied below but I guess you have already checked.
    SHROUD PLATES
    Distance from outside transom to centre of pin hole in each shroud plate. 2743 (9’0”) maximum.
    Distance athwartships between centres of pin holes in opposite shroud plates. 1575 (5’2”) minimum.

    in reply to: Hello from North East Scotland. #35159
    john1162
    Participant

    Hi Ben,

    When I was young and fit with a young family I could manage a Wayfarer by myself. It was a bit of a struggle at times but I did manage it.  My youngest Daughter is now 30 and she doesn’t need much help from me to pull the boat up the slipway.  It is a big dinghy and it is very easy to load it up with all sorts of extras and here might be the problem.  Keep it light and do not take the barbecue would be my advice.

    in reply to: Best Paint / Varnish MK1 Wayfarer #34980
    john1162
    Participant

    Hi Pete,

    Ask 10 people what the best paint to use is and you will get 10 different answers!  With that in mind my wooden boat has International Toplac paint on the hull. The wood work has been stripped to bare wood, epoxied and two pack Perfection Plus varnish applied.  Underneath the floorboards I used grey bilge paint from Craftmaster Paints which is very durable and a good finish.  Your transom can be stripped and you might be lucky to get rid of the staining with hot oxalic acid. I use single pack paint on the hull because it is easy to repair when you scrape the hull.  Two pack varnish gives a very durable finish with only three coats which can be rubbed down and polished should you want a glass like finish (which is easy to slide off). Floorboards have been painted with International non-slip paint.

    in reply to: Outboard bracket- MK1 GRP #34920
    john1162
    Participant

    I fitted one recently and yes remove the foam. The foam in the one I did was held in with a thin GRP sheet. I used a multi tool to remove it. So long as everything is clean and dry putting it back with tape and resin is easy but messy if you do not mask the area.

    in reply to: Mast float – which size? #34886
    john1162
    Participant

    Aeroluffspars sell a 35 litre sail head buoyancy bag which I have seen being tested at my sailing club and in calm flat water it was possible to walk out along the mast nearly up to the spreaders.  This amount of buoyancy should be sufficient for most eventualities in a MK 2 boat.  Nine litres on a Wayfarer World or a MK4 would not stop an inversion in strong winds and waves. Nine litres on a MK1 woodie might give you a little bit of time to get onto the centreboard it depends on how heavy, fit and agile you are.  The only way for you to be sure is to get lots of 5 litre bottles and tie them to the top of the mast, capsize your boat and see how it performs. I suppose I ought to say do the testing whilst under the supervision of someone in a support boat but do your own risk assessment.

    in reply to: Wayfarer World Centreboard fitting #34803
    john1162
    Participant

    Assuming you cannot buy one from Hartley boats and wish to make one then to make a replacement you will need a 316 grade stainless steel plate with a stainless steel tube welded on at the correct angle and long enough to just reach the pivot pin when installed. The sizes will have to be measured from the centreboard.  An alternative would be to cut up a plastic bread board and sandwich two pieces together with self tapping A4 stainless countersunk screws and cut it to fit the slot. This could then be screwed onto a stainless steel plate again with countersunk stainless screws. this would not be as strong and you would have to be careful to ensure the screws did not go right through and scratch the centreboard case.  The stainless steel construction is best and you can buy the stainless from metals4you and if you have a stainless steel car exhaust manufacturer near you they could TIG weld the pieces together. This is what I would do.  I would regard the breadboard construction only as a temporary measure.

    in reply to: Mk 4 ‘Cruising’ hull #34709
    john1162
    Participant

    Assuming all thing being equal then the cruising version of the MK4 will not point as high and is heavier and not as stiff. All of which means that the MK4 cruising version will not be competitive when sailed against a racing version.  When it comes to speed difference I do not know of any testing that has been done.

     

    in reply to: Painting Wooden Deck Mark 1 #34401
    john1162
    Participant

    If you decide to paint the paint will have to be robust enough to walk on so perhaps a two pack.  The wooden boats I have seen that have been painted never looked good probably because the paint was trying to hide something.  Keep this in mind for just in case you want to sell your boat.  You can choose any colour you like but I would not paint the rubbing strips as they will get scuffed.

    in reply to: Tabernacle material – technical question #34364
    john1162
    Participant

    Hi Pat,

    Replacing the tabernacle with alloy verticals would be against the rules but if you have no intention of racing then you may use whatever you think fit. If you wanted to sell your boat at some point in the future then there may be an issue to be dealt with when a prospective buyer looks at the boat.

    Regards John

    R&T chairman.

     

    in reply to: Renovation #33230
    john1162
    Participant

    Hatch seals are vital. Take your centreboard out and refurbish it after checking for cracks.  Rudders and their fixings are a weak point so check the pintles are firmly fastened on. The inside wood support for the pintles next to the keel can go soft so again check.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 62 total)