Dave Bevan
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I think it’s more important to find a sail maker who can understand your needs, the conditions you sail in, the boat and the ability/weight of the crew. +/-£ becomes irrelevant if you’ve bought something unsuitable 💡
We have Macnamara’s and they were made to suit our inland racing conditions in generally flat/light conditions. Whether they are any good for racing in coastal/heavy weather, I have no idea!
Our boat was originally setup for Hyde cruising sails and it happens that the Macs work well with the minimum bend that the Hydes were setup for.
So Pete, where do you sail? Why the Jeckells initially, and did they come with the boat?I have a Selden drum and Harken top swivel with metal disc on my MKIV. The forestay is tied to an eye on the front but goes slack when the genoa is fastened and tensioned. I’ve added a loop of Bungy onto the forestay which has just enough tension to take up the slack. I did away with the triangle that came with the boat – I found that the twist in the forestay/genoa halyard was enough to wind the triangle so it was more likely to foul when furled. When racing, we use different sails without furler.
20 or 40 litres recommended? Even 20l seems a lot of buoyancy compared to the foam sail patch I currently have?
@Colin Parkstone wrote:
I take it that you were pulling my rigging? Have a good season!! 😆
It certainly wasn’t aimed personally at you Colin, apologies if it came across that way 😳
Seriously though, I can see pro’s and con’s for 1 or 2 discards, but wouldn’t advocate none.
The summer Wednesday series at our club has 22 races, with only 7 to count 😯 In theory, you could compete in three different boats (or for lasers, 3 different rigs).
@Colin Parkstone wrote:
I would not want to have no discards if it was a two race day regatta, say you broke your mast in the first race of the day
it might encourage you to sail within the limits of the boat/rig/crew/rules for the whole regatta?
How cheap?
Depends on your expected use (1hr winter club race or longer day sail). Also important to have the right undergarments that wick away any moisture.
Our MKII originally had fairleads on the side-deck, but we could never sheet the genoa as close as the main would allow and the fairlead was a pain in the ar$3 for the crew when hiking, literally.
If you must, I’d add new fairleads and cleats, rather than moving them so you retain the inboard sheeting position for short-handed sailing. The sheeting angle can be helped by a barber-hauler.
Get a go pro if you can, fortunately I can borrow one.
I’ve got a Panasonic waterproof camcorder, takes good pics and HD video, but not very wide angle if you want to take pictures of the crew 💡
Not sure about integrated GPS. sounds like a great way to drain the batteries and dual purpose devices don’t usually do either as well as a dedicated device (I know the mantra, everything should have two uses 🙄 )
We originally had a 4:1 rigged at the mast and rarely adjusted under-way. We upgraded to a wire cascade led aft to split controls and our current cruiser/racer has a dynema cascade also led to the thwart (along with the out haul and Cunningham).
All get tweaked whilst racing or day-sailing, split controls mean fine/light control and extra purchase but also means it’s easy to overtension. Cost is always a factor but simplicity should only be a consideration on training boats.
Trevor – I actually like the lines running along the side of the CB case; I slot our chart folder behind them whilst sailing. We carry paddles under the seats, rather than oars.Looks great. Will it flex with the mast? Did you etch-prime it first, or isn’t that necessary on anodised Ali?
These might help if you don’t have the manual for your your motor.
The splitpin (a) locates the prop on the shaft, normally through an offset hole in the prop and a groove on the driveshaft.
The shearpin (b) transmits the rotation from the driveshaft
If the shearpin breaks, the splitpin ensures the prop doesn’t fall off!
Don’t know about yours but outboards generally have a shear-pin on the prop drive, to prevent engine damage in the event of issues like you experienced. Take the prop off (mine is kept on the shaft with a split pin but that just keeps it in place), you should find the broken shear pin, and normally outboards are supplied with at least one spare. You should always carry a spare in case.
My outboard is fixed ahead on a standoff bracket- makes it harder to control but keeps it away from the rudder, sheets, etc, but not trailing lines 💡
