Latest News: Forums Technical Which rudder stock?

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  • #3520
    Dave Barker
    Keymaster

    Which rudder stock/tiller/extension combination would you personally recommend? I’m inclined towards getting an alloy stock with about a 1200-1300mm tiller and an 850-1500mm extension, but I’m interested in other ideas too.

    Also, what arrangements have been found to work well for rudder up- and/or downhaul? (Shock cord seems to be more or less essential in the downhaul part of the system to cope with grounding in a non-destructive way.) Does anyone have an uphaul that works well, or do you, like me just reach down and pull the rudder up by hand?

    #5377
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    Dave,
    As far as tiller extensions are concerned, I have an RWO, but have used a Ronstan. The Ronstan was much better.
    I found some trampoline elastic for my downhaul – has never allowed the rudder to lift however fast I am surfing.
    My uphaul is a line from a hole at the top of the trailing edge of the blade – works OK, but nothing special. I have heard of people who add a small block to the blade to give a two to one purchase.
    Good luck.

    #5385
    Bob Harland
    Participant

    for the downhaul I would strongly recommend clamcleat cl257;
    http://www.clamcleat.com/marketing/news_article.asp?theid=2
    We have used this for over 10 years and find it preferable to elastic which is prone to allow the rudder blade rise up slightly when beating in a seaway.
    And we don’t bother with an uphaul – if the boat is in the water then the rudder blade will float up on it’s own, and if the boat is out of the water (or about to come out) then take the rudder off. that way it will not get damaged.
    We have always used wooden rudder stocks, they look more substantial than the metal ones and over the decades they have had a more thorough testing.

    #5390
    Swiebertje
    Participant

    @Bob Harland wrote:

    for the downhaul I would strongly recommend clamcleat cl257;
    http://www.clamcleat.com/marketing/news_article.asp?theid=2
    We have used this for over 10 years and find it preferable to elastic which is prone to allow the rudder blade rise up slightly when beating in a seaway.
    And we don’t bother with an uphaul – if the boat is in the water then the rudder blade will float up on it’s own, and if the boat is out of the water (or about to come out) then take the rudder off. that way it will not get damaged.
    We have always used wooden rudder stocks, they look more substantial than the metal ones and over the decades they have had a more thorough testing.

    Well phrased Bob. However, I would let my choice of stock depend on the boat type. A modern GRP plus-S with a deep style rudder looks good with a CeeVee stock, but a classic woody looks horrible with it. A woody needs a wooden stock, just for the looks. But that is only my opinion.

    I just made a wood rudder stock from the official drawing (available from the class secretary) using some mahogany plywood. It took me about three hours to make using only a power jigsaw and my (battery) power drill. All other work was done using simple hand tools (most important tool: sandpaper). Varnishing took me the rest of the week, about 30 minutes a day). I have re-used the old SS parts and I believe it is a job anyone can do. Most important, no other solution beats the cost of a small piece of plywood.


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