- 02/05/2017 at 9:35 pm #23802
First post here, new to owning Wayfarers (though it’s what I learnt in way back when), and new to here.
After downsizing my old cruisers to something more tow-able and use-able, I’ve bought a bit of a banger to get me started. To be honest, I’m not going to put in loads of time and effort, in that I suspect when my wife and I come out of the funding crisis of the maternity leave, I’m probably going to buy a slightly nicer one, but in the meantime, it’s what I have…
I can’t quite work out what version it is. One of the reasons for this is that the previous owner has glassed the front hatches in and sealed over the rear one, apparently in an attempt to make it ‘off-shore buoyant’.
This is all well and good, but the one thing I really must do (others may disagree and that’s fine) is fit an outboard bracket as I’m in the upper reaches of the Bristol Channel, and that means I need to get to the rear of the transom in order to both beef up the area with some wood, and also just be able to do up the bolts.
So can anyone advise what version they think this is, and have any suggestions about the neatest way to proceed. The back ‘seal’ looks like a hardened putty-like substance that I’m going to ‘winkle’ out. The front bit of glassing is harder to deal with and might have to stay as is (for what it’s worth, they do look like two separate front hatches that have been glassed over).
Sail number is 4383, but don’t know whether they’re the original sails or not…
Cheers02/05/2017 at 10:57 pm #23804
Welcome to UKWA and to the forum!
Your boat looks like a Mk1A, judging by the twin front hatches, which would make it a 1987 or later boat and therefore 4383 would not be the original sail number. Presumably there’s no metal plate with any identification details on the sloping part of the centreboard case?
It’s possible that this was used as a training boat and that the hatches weren’t useful because no cruising was anticipated, so they were glassed up to ensure buoyancy with minimal maintenance (e.g. hatch seals, clips etc.)
If you’re lucky the stuff used around the rear hatch won’t have been keyed into the original gelcoat and so it may chip away cleanly.
Is there a drain hole from the front compartment? It would be good to know that this is actually dry and watertight. You could run a buoyancy test at some point to check this. (We’re planning to publish an article on dry buoyancy testing in the near future).
Good luck with the boat, and thanks for the photos!04/05/2017 at 7:28 pm #23843
Thanks for the thoughts.
I began the tiresome process of chipping away the putty, and it’s a much more difficult and time-consuming job than I feared!
There is a plate, but it’s at the back by the stern locker, and just says it’s built by Porter Bros, but doesn’t have a hull number or anything. Can’t find a plate anywhere else…14/05/2017 at 7:41 pm #23941
The rear locker is proving hard work, and not least because I do’nt really have an idea what I’m aiming for. I’m smashing away at it with a hammer and chisel, but dread discovering that I’ve just smashed it through the putty and through the fibreglass underneath. Does anyone have a picture of a similar rear locker to me (particularly along the front edge and along the hinge line) that they could post to show me what I’m aiming for?
So many things are dependent on getting this off – I need to not only install an outboard bracket, but also ideally a couple of rear-quarter cleats.
She also has a centre-cleat for the mainsheet. Am I right in saying that under class rules, I’m ok as long as the block is at the end of the boom/behind the transom? Am I allowed any kind of tackle here, or just a line from the transom strop to around the block to the mid-boom block to the centre cleat? I’m much more of a cruiser, but it would be nice to occasionally race her in club races, and I don’t want to knowingly breach class rules…
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