11/01/2018 at 1:27 pm #25516
Sylvain, from France again for another classical question for which I found no answer…
I found two kinds of outboard brackets :
The first one is very simple, and can’t move. But it’s easy to build : http://www.accastillage-diffusion.com/publicmedia/formatted/537/41/fr/T50015.jpg;maxh=229,maxw=305.jpg
The second one is articulated… but is it necessary? :http://www.discount-marine.com/sites/default/files/images/produit/5156/support_moteur_reglable.png
If I tilt the engine when I do not use it, the fixed version is not enough?
Sylvain11/01/2018 at 7:42 pm #25518
Many of us use this kind of bracket https://seamarknunn.com/acatalog/removable-alloy-outboard-bracket-3622.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMImtjV_crQ2AIVSrXtCh04igL-EAQYESABEgJEkPD_BwE
The plate is fixed to the transom by through-bolting (use a backing plate inside the buoyancy tank) and you fit the rest of the bracket only on days when you need the engine.
With the engine tilted nearly horizontal the hélice is just lifted out of the water. If you have the articulated bracket, it would lift the moteur further out of the water but I would worry about the mainsheet catching on the engine. I moved the mainsheet attachment point on the boom a bit further forward than usual to help with this problem.
Mike13/01/2018 at 5:58 pm #25519
fixed; with a flat socket on transom that the bracket slots into works well for me. sourced from Ralph Roberts who also suggested where exactly i should fix it on my wooden boat. big question is; do you have it to port or starboard?
23/01/2018 at 11:13 am #25702
- This reply was modified 1 month ago by nicko.
Many thanks for your anwer,
I just see it, I did not receive the email notification about it!
I had seen this kind of bracket but I didn’t know there were two parts 😀
So I understand much more how it works and so the advantages of it..
I’ll see if I can buy one…
About the buyoancy tank, I suppose I’ll have to open it if I want to insert a backing plate inside it… and to close it whith fiber glass and polyester to make it dry again?
Sylvain23/01/2018 at 11:16 am #25703
I think I’ll put it on babord…
But one more auestion to every body : when going with engine, you turn right and left with the rudder (keeping the engine on a fixed position) or with the engine (turning it)???23/01/2018 at 12:39 pm #25704
i found that when in a big area of water steering by the rudder was most convenient but when manoeuvring in tight places using the outboard gave more control25/01/2018 at 11:00 am #25715
It makes sense…
The turning radius may be smaller with the engine and larger with the rudder, I suppose…25/01/2018 at 1:18 pm #25717
Also there has to be a good flow of water over the rudder before it will work effectively. The engine’s propeller works at very low boat speed, and can be pointed in any direction.28/01/2018 at 6:12 pm #25733
Ha yes it is true that without speed the rudder will not allow to maneuver at low speed, while turning the engine, yes … Thank you for putting this point forward, I had not thought!
02/02/2018 at 7:01 pm #25821
- This reply was modified 2 weeks, 5 days ago by Sylvain Caro.
Sylvain, you ask about placing the backing plate, cutting an opening and re-glassing. No, that should not be necessary.
Do you have a hatch on your rear deck? On my Mk 2 I was able to fit the backing plate inside the rear buoyancy tank by reaching through the hatch opening. The transom is thin, flat glassfibre and cannot support the load of the outboard and bracket so if you fit a piece of plywood or Paxolin, cut to shape and bedded onto mastic makes a good way to spread the load. After bedding the backing plate, drill through for the bolts and get some help fitting the bracket, because you cannot hold a spanner on the nuts at the same time as you turn the bolts.
Mike08/02/2018 at 8:49 pm #25861
Thanks for your post…
My Wayfarer is a Mk1 GRP, so the transom is made of wood, around 20 or 25mm (I d’ont remember…), and looks very strong.
But there are no hatch in it…
So, it looks like I’ll have to open the buyoancy volume… :-p
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