Latest News: Forums Technical what is the surface area of a Wayfarer?

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  • #4632

    Dear Folks

    It’s clear the the old girl needs a complete strip down and re-paint/varnish this year: whilst she’s still in reasonable shape now, another season’s sailing – including two weeks tied up on a pontoon – won’t do the hull any favours. On the plus side, her last outing was in December and since then she’s been undercover in a large draughty boat shed.

    However I have cunningly arranged to be too busy do my boat-maintainance so far this winter and now I’m about to move house. The plan is to do boat work as soon as we are moved (just before Cruising Conference I hope), but I’m keen to get a steer on how long a job I’m about to let myself in for … I have checked the WIT site and can’t find the answers

    the questions are:
    what is (roughly) the surface area to allow for (vital when ordering materials): outside of hull, the decks, and the inside the cockpit?
    and secondly, roughly how long a job am I talking about here: – I realise the best thing would have been to have a couple of unrushed winter months in a nice cosy shed: but that wasn’t an option!

    The orginal plan was to do everything: hull, inside the boat and decks.
    However, it may well be that this needs scaling back to the basic hull work (in and out) and leave the decks and rest of cockpit for another time …

    The outside needs now to be stripped back to wood, and the screw-hole fairings all need re-doing with epoxy, then the plan was re-epoxy (2 layers) and then two coats of two-pack white below the waterline and a good epifanes enamel above
    I was also planning to redo the bilges (inside below the waterline, treating it the same as the outer surface of the hull.
    Overall my main area of concern is the hull section around the bailers and bordering on the keel/hog, so the the bailers will need to come out and go back in again

    Does anyone have any rough time estimates of how long these jobs tend to take?

    thanks all

    Boris – Delphy W6330.

    #11767
    Swiebertje
    Participant

    It depends, like all boats a Wayfarer grows and shrinks all the time. We all know that a certified racing Wayfarer is just under 16 feet in length while she is racing. But when it comes to paying harbour fees she is just a measly 15 feet, and after a beer at the bar she grows from “well over 16” to to a stunning “17 feet” and more. Obviously, if the length varies the surface area must vary as well. That is why I start with one pot of paint and buy a second only if required and the first one is empty. That way the surface area (and size) doesn’t matter. I also don’t need to worry if I put the paint on too thick or putting an extra layer on.

    #11770

    OK, so now I understand why I’m told the W is “like a clipper bearing down on me” by sailors in solos and lasers! Some have enquired as to what we have done with our cannons – “surely the handicap depends on having those aboard?” they say.

    Seriously though I’ve opted to go for an estimate of 14m2 for the outside and 10m2 for the inside and 4m2 for the decks, unless anyone knows better than is. I hope these are over generous, but a trip into Bristol to get more paint (when I can make it at all) takes 2 hours in the car when I could be doing something better!

    #11771
    Colin Parkstone
    Participant

    I would say a bit more Andrew,

    5.5 sqmt, for the decks as it takes two sheets of ply to deck a Wayfarer.

    15sqmt, for the hull. 5mt x 3mt = 15sqmt. ( White under waterline = 5sqmt and color 10sqmt)

    12sqmt, for the inside as you also have seats,centreboard box sides and knees to varnish and maybe a rudder and centreboard to do as well.

    So you have to much, it will keep and you have it over for chips and scratches.

    Not sure about a recoating of Epoxy after a strip off, epoxy goes well into the wood and it could still be in the wood after a hand strip.

    Also if the epoxy coat is sound, you may find its over kill and also epoxy is very hard to dry and set in cool and damp weather which we have at the moment unless you have lots of heat and low moisture content in the wood and the air. I would think hard about that one, if epoxy goes wrong it one hell of a mess and cost. šŸ™

    Are you going to change color, if not why strip off a protection unless you have to. A good hard sand with dry paper will give you a good key to work from with undercoat and top.

    #11774

    Hi Colin

    thanks for this really fabulous information on the areas – just what I was looking for!

    just to answer your questions: I’m concerned about how Delphy’s hull will be by September on the basis that there are cracks around all the screw-hole fairings now, also there are signs of dampness within the ply around the bailers, that and multiple little scratches and dings that need fixing. Our current hull colour is a bespoke one I have to get made up specially (nearest place for this 90 minutes away!) – so I’m looking to replace that with a near-match from Epifanes. Overall I just felt that getting back to the bare wood and sorting everything out properly and in one go would be better for the boat in the long run.

    the hull doesn’t appear to be epoxied: where the paint has chipped down it looks a bit like old silver primer as the base layer and a good number of coats of paint on top. I felt since the fairing needed a sort I might as well do a clean start on the hull: epoxy seems to be the favoured way to go there, and I felt that a good two pack below the water line would stand her in good stead.

    there is epoxy remaining on the foredecks which are now looking yellower than other sections: I’m assuming that this U/V related change and means its not quite the epoxy it once was and it wouldn’t hurt to strip it clean and recoat – is that not right?

    cheers

    Boris

    #11785
    Colin Parkstone
    Participant

    If you had no Epoxy on the hull, not sure it would be on the decks then!

    Id say not, Stone did not use Epoxy till later life than 6330 so your yellowing could be damp under the decks in the tanks which often get sealed to keep out water but then keep in moisture because of no ventilation.

    Get the hatch off, air the tanks and see if the underside of the decks have much varnish on them.

    Lets see, you have a differing color where the tanks start at the bulkhead than aft of that which is in the air of the cockpit, classic varnish shortage inside the tanks which are hard to get into to protect.

    Do the tanks when the boat is upside down and on a stool, on your knees is a good place to get right into the tanks.

    Remember that if you do the white in two pack and the topsides in one pot, do the two pot first and then the one can go up to or just over the joint. Two pot can strip off fresh one pot!
    CP

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