Latest News: Forums Technical W76

Viewing 15 posts - 61 through 75 (of 76 total)
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  • #34459
    Steve W76
    Participant

    I’m now cleaning and inspecting all of the original interior woodwork for refitting or replacement. Just cleaned the rear seat socket, lovely to see the original manufacturers markings. They should last another 60 years…..

    #35035
    Steve W76
    Participant

    So, where to start? Inspection of the rear compartment woodwork found some rotten timber.

    So I found some old hardwood drawer fronts and refashioned them into suitable sized pieces.

    Then set applied 2 coats of epoxy ready for the bilge paint to be applied..

    All progressing nicely….

    #35037
    Steve W76
    Participant

    Next up, I have a slight dilemma. The build manual says the shroud plates should be fitted to the front of the knees, mine were fitted to the rear (as highlighted by the witness marks….

    However they still measure to the correct location

    #35038
    Steve W76
    Participant

    Just to make sure everything is back where it was before I started, I opted to loose fit all of my old decking.

    Pleased to report that everything has slotted back just as it was, that’s reassuring!

    #35043
    Jerome FR – W447
    Participant

    Fantastic job!

    Jérôme

    #35160
    john1162
    Participant

    The position of the shroud plates are governed by the class rules copied below but I guess you have already checked.
    SHROUD PLATES
    Distance from outside transom to centre of pin hole in each shroud plate. 2743 (9’0”) maximum.
    Distance athwartships between centres of pin holes in opposite shroud plates. 1575 (5’2”) minimum.

    #35283
    Steve W76
    Participant

    Both Fore and aft locations meet the measurement requirements, as you say I always have my class rules tucked under one arm. I also have a TV/monitor in my shed with a USB stick full of my “dismantling” photos at the ready for quick reference….

    #35341
    Roger
    Participant

    Looking good Steve,

    Just getting round to re-decking mine, what type of glue will you use?

    Also, what type of bilge paint will you use?

    Roger

    #35345
    Steve W76
    Participant

    Hi Roger, as for glue I have been using the West 105/205 system throughout the rebuild. I find the ability to thicken it quite useful. I am mindful that I am effectively working with spotlessly or new wood on any/all joints, so any/all traces of old adhesive/varnish/paint have been eradicated before I apply my new stuff. Some adhesives do not interface well with other/older types.

    I also use the same to seal the panels before painting/varnishing.

    As for bilge paint, I have used Epifanes. I used their varnish when restoring my old Flying Fifteen and loved the deep finish it gave, so thought I would stick with the same for W76.

    I figured it would be a lot easier to epoxy/paint/varnish the inside of the hull before I lay the decks…

    Steve

    #35361
    Roger
    Participant

    My old deck didn’t come off very well so I’m making templates from lining paper.

    #35366
    Steve W76
    Participant

    Looking good there Roger. I was fortunate – most of my decking pieces just lifted off, so I could use them as templates.

    #35413
    Jerome FR – W447
    Participant

    Hello,
    At my sailing club today, where I am currently working on the hull, we wondered what would be the best practice to upside down the hull without a crane.

    May you share some advice?
    Thanks in advance.

    #35435
    Steve W76
    Participant

    So far I have only turned mine over using a crane, then turning it back rightways up using the frame I built into the boat. I seem to remember others discussing boat rolling on this forum previously.

    Steve

    #35486
    Jerome FR – W447
    Participant

    Thank you Steve,
    I effectively found 1 or 2 insights on this forum.

    Is there a risk the boat crush by its weight when it is on its side, during the upside-down?
    I wonder if the frame you built into the boat is:
    – for reinforcing the hull structure during the upside-down?
    – or it is because you were alone to do this and the frame simplifies that manoeuvre?

    We don’t have a crane into the sailing club garage, but we will be 5 or 6 folks around the boat during the manoeuvre (and old tyres to protect)

    Jérôme

    #35488
    Bob Harland
    Participant

    Hi, turning the boat over with 5 or 6 people should be fine. Watch out for point contact points of the boat with the ground – the boat can be rolled onto its side quite easily – lots of padding/fenders/boat rollers – but ensure it is lifted clear of the ground past the gunwales.
    The chines are pretty strong, but the gunwales have less structure supporting them and there is a danger that the entire weight of the boat will bear on a single point.
    Minimise the weight by removing floorboards, hatch covers and centreboard.

    Bob

Viewing 15 posts - 61 through 75 (of 76 total)
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