Latest News: Forums Technical Traveller on Mk1

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  • #28802


    On checking over the boat (a Mk1 GRP) in preparation for this seasons sailing, I’ve noticed that some of the screws holding the traveller to the top of the transom are just turning in their sockets.  This means that the traveller isn’t brilliantly secure, and also has me worried about the integrity of the buoyancy tank (though from poking a bbq skewer through the screw holes they don’t seem to go all the way through, which is a relief).


    I don’t really want to replace the traveller, as there are more pressing jobs to do, and I can’t look from the other side to see what the screws are seated in as the buoyancy blocks in the stern buoyancy compartment completely block access.  So I was thinking of sticking araldite in the screw holes and then screwing back in.  But before I do that, I wanted to check if anyone thought this was a bad idea, or if there is a better way to fix this?……..



    Bob Harland

    Hi, I would avoid screwing into epoxy that has not set – because it might be difficult to remove the screws at a later date.

    I suggest removing all the screws and traveller, for any enlarged holes see if there is any loose material that can be removed then fill with expoxy. When the epoxy has set drill a suitable sized fresh hole for the screws. Consider using longer screws.

    It is possible that the screws are going into timber that has rotted. But whatever the material the idea is to remove what is in poor condition and replace it with epoxy/fibre mix – rather than araldite.

    Modern boats tend to use a rope bridle rather than a traveller for the mainsheet, so you may have other stronger options on  securing a bridle to the transom if a good repair of the traveller is not possible.

    hope that helps

    Ian Fitzpatrick

    The traveler on my mk1 composite W2713 is mounted on the top of the transom and is a long way away from the rear buoyancy tank. But I guess the point about possible rot is worth investing


    I agree with Bob, the bridle solution works well on my W.  If you are super racy there are ways to make the bridle adjustable but it has never been an issue in my experience (but then again, I don’t race).

    As an alternative suggestion, if you take your track off completely, you could use the improved access to in fill all the screw holes and fair the top of your transom. Take your aluminium track and saw the end 25 mm or so off one end.  This will have the effect of shifting the screw hole positions on the transom .  Recentre the track and drill new pilot holes which will now miss the old holes and you should be into fresh, stronger GRP.  Use longer and gnarlier screws than before and you should be good to go.

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