Latest News: Forums Technical Transom Flaps

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  • #9818

    Found a couple of photos which might be of interest:

    The aluminium L-shaped part gives stiffness to the plastic/perspex plate. The horizontal part of it could be narrower. It is attached with pop rivets if memory serves me well.
    Between the plastic plate and the boat, there is a piece of yellow foam which was cut from a cheap camping matress, and it is kept in place with small bolts and big washers cut out of something plastic and transparent (so you can’t see it well in the photo 3).
    The clever idea is the pair of bolts on which the flap is hinged. They are screwed into the transom (holes in the transom were threaded with the No1 bit – sorry I don’t know the proper term in English), but also have nuts and washers on inner side of boat for stiffness. Holes in the flap through which the bolt goes are somewhat large and sanded (wrong word again probably sorry) so that the flap is quite loose if the bungee cord on the inside of the boat is undone. But still, these holes are smaller then the head of the bolt so that the flap can’t drop out.
    Hopefully this makes sense…
    The whole setup is somewhat unrefined with regards to size and it’s weight, but this was meant as a first experiment with a new idea (flaps hinged on bolts) which would be refined if found to work.
    I’ve slept in the boat so I know that this system doesn’t leak at all, and is easily released in emergency. So it does work, but just as Swiebertje said, even the amount of water that gets caught inside in a partial capsize, will make the boat so heavy that water will run into it just as easily as we’d hope it would run out. One really needs to start sailing the boat again, and then the water will go away through bailers, and the difference in speed of draining is not noticable in my experience with flaps loose, or closed.
    So, really the best thing with a WWorld is to close those things forever and have one complication less in the boat.

    Colin Parkstone

    From an early age the Dutch are taught how to stop water,it has saved them from wet feet for many years. 😆

    So when a Dutchman says water does not flow up hill I think it could be true!!

    But dont ask them about mountain climbing!! 😕

    😉 CP


    Whut’s that, a mountain?


    Thanks for all the replies and advice everyone!
    I knew the boat had some problems when I got it- hence the low price I paid. I was told that there was a significant leak and I had initially presumed that this was related to a crazed area near the waterline. Fortunately this turned out to be no deeper than the gelcoat. However the hull was in poor condition around one of the self-bailer openings- the inner and outer mouldings had parted and the bolt holes for the bailers were oversized so that the heads would pull through into the layup. Not nice.
    I squeezed epoxy into the crack between the hull mouldings, and then fitted the bailers with longer bolts and washers, to clamp the whole thing back together. This has the downside that there are bolts heads protuding from the hull. But, hey, I’m not racing!
    Obviously this repair has not be entirely successful. However I did keep the boat afloat for eight weeks before I noticed it was a little low in the water and decided to pump out the buoyancy compartment. So the water ingress it not happening at a catastrophic rate by any means.
    A second problem is that the self-bailers themselves (plastic super chute 90s) let a little water through, into the drain sumps under the thwart. I don’t really see any harm in this as the water simply reaches a stable level after a while.

    What’s the best way of finding the leaks? The old fairy-liquid and pumped air trick? Or just support the boat really well and put some water inside?

    Colin Parkstone

    Be so careful with air pressure, I much prefer to use vacuum on a boat as replicates the pressure on a hull when submerged which is what a boat is built for.

    Use pressure lightly with the soap to find the holes but not high as you can blow any working seals or joints and undo all your good work.

    Vacuum can work well to pull in any sealant into a hole or void. Force into the void the filler, light vacuum to pull it in further and then fill again without vacuum.

    Void then filled much further than just the surface.

    You will not find any outside holes by filling a selfdrainer with water,that will only fill the air chamber under the floor.


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