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  • #3581

    I would love to buy a new trailer but finance is a major problem. Ideally it would be a road trailer that will also be a launching trolley. I think this would suit best as I launch using the car 90% of the time but space at the club compound is limited and a combi seems to take up more space. We launch on the Tamar so there can be some salinity in the water so the trailer needs to be robust enough to withstand this. My current non-wayfarer specific trailer is very heavy and does not at the keel band. Does anybody know of a suitable make?




    I had a trailer made by a firm in Hoylake,near Liverpool,.
    It had a long square bar, tow fitting on one end and three keel roolers on top.another square bar at right angles which was bolted with “U” bolts,
    easy to move it along the keel bar and alter the nose weight of the trailer,.
    the axle had square thbes with roolers which when pushed up to hold the hull could be locked with a bolt.Indi units which were fitted with aqua seals
    to keep out sea water when launching.The only draw back was it required deeper water than a launching trolly to launch.
    I now have a very expensive Sovern combi.which if the cover fills with water tips the boat up anl usually takes two to get the launching trolley
    with boat on to the trailer and no means of altering the nose weight.
    Jim Byers.Minstral.


    I quote below from an email sent by Dixon Bate in response to my extensive telephone enquiry – they were initially reluctant to quote, thinking the Wayfarer was heavier than it really is!

    Dear Dr Maynard

    I have checked on the unlaiden weight of the road trailer with rollers and it comes out at 70kg.

    I have attached a photo of the said trailer for you to mull over.

    The road trailer with rollers costs £457.89 inc vat

    Gareth Meyer
    B. Dixon-Bate Ltd, Unit 45, First Avenue,
    Deeside Industrial Park, Deeside, Flintshire, CH5 2LG
    ( Tel +44 (0)1244 288925
    6 Fax +44 (0)1244 288462

    + Email

    and the picture:


    I have been using a road trailer for a few years now for my mk2 ,
    make Indespension Rapide

    I haul out using the winch attached an eye in the bow , 10mm SS backed by large V backing block in the front storage area, would be better to have it lower but that would have meant somehow getting access to the buoyancy compartment – next to impossible. The arrangement is perfect for hauling onto the trailer single handed. The only modification I plan to make is to get rid of the bunks and replace with rollers , a W does not sit quite square on the bunks due to the bilge runners.

    One word of caution when using the hand winch , do not rely on the ratchet to hold the tension at any time , mine broke a few weeks ago , the handle kicked back and broke three fingers , right at the begining of a 3 day cruise!!! the most painful thing was to have to sit at home during a period of fine settled weather. 😥



    Ouch!!! Commiserations Q……that must have been seriously gutting!

    I got my combi trailer from Admiral trailers in Devon who were the trailer people Porters used ………..approach them direct (haggle) and perhaps they can build whatever you want. I keep the road part of my trailer at home so space taken in the boat yard is less and obviously the boat is less nickable. I believe the A frame shape is supposed to be best for towing although I am sure both types are good…. its an interesting debate but I think it would be a shame to go for one type on the basis of boatyard space only………the lightness/manoeverability of trolleys on slipways…..I also inherited some bilge keel damage when I got my boat due to it being on a trolley without cut-outs for the bilge keels.
    Good luck whatever you choose.


    H Q, sitting at home when the weather is good, esp with broken fingers sounds awful! I hope things are well on the mend / mended by now.

    I have a question regarding the eye in the bow of your W: I would like to put one in mine, and would welcome your views on:

    1 – getting access inside the forepeak to put bolts on the back of the eye (mine is a GRP Mk2). It would seem either like a very long extension on a ratchet, or a job for my 9 yr old daughter to crawl inside.
    2 – are there any issues over load, ie should I worry that I will pull the eye out of the bow on a steep slip? – is this what you refer to as your large V backing block – does this take the shape of the inside of the hull?

    Would welcome your thoughts



    Hi Jon

    Thanks for your thoughts – yes they are on the mend – left hand index finger is at a a bit of an angle but never was a two handed typist anyway!

    As for the eye – I put mine in about 5 years ago and did the un PC thing by sending in the boy after putting him on short rations for a few weeks – he was about 10 at the time and just about fitted in the shelf of my MK2.
    The eye has an M10 thread and the backing v was made to more or less follow the shape of the bow.
    I tried the long extension method first but found the angle of the thread and visibility once you had cut out the light with your body, impossible to get a socket and nut over the end , so boy, spanner and bribery it was.

    In my opinion and experience this arrangement is strong enough to to pull a the boat up any incline. It would be more efficient to get the eye lower to get a straighter pull , but on a Mk2 that would mean getting into the front bouyancy chamber , impossible without major reconstruction.

    One of the best modifications you can make to the W together with a topping lift and masthead bouyancy.

    Good luck!


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