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  • #24151
    Ketchup 8819

    Hi I have been having issues following the instructions in the Wayfarer book and so thought I would post them here:

    Having raised the Mast I struggled to get it fully back to the rear most pin in the track, a rope around the Mast onto the centreboard gave the necessary purchase.  As I tensioned up the shrouds to just shy of 160kg the Mast came forward in the track reducing the Mast take to ~7080mm.  How do I keep the Mast at the rear of the track?

    I decided to settle where it was which meant putting a pin in the third hole in the track, but the pin doesn’t fit in due to the gap between the track and the tabernacle, the pin is as short as it can be. So is the third pin so far forward that a correctly set up Mast would never utilise this position or is my track mounted too far forward?

    What is the point of this pin, I can’t see that the Mast would spin forward given the tension in the shrouds?


    With the Highfield lever In the top position I got ~155kg but in 2nd top I got 130kg.  How do I get 130kg, 140kg and 160kg?


    Trident sold me a Wayfarer Mast pivot pin diameter 8mm, I was frustrated this wasn’t the minimum 6mm the book advises but as the one I was replacing was 12mm it seemed like an improvement so I didn’t return it. Then I was dealing with Hartley’s who assured me their Mast pivot pins were 6mm and since they were almost half the price of Hartley’s and offering a good deal on P&P I made the purchase but was disheartened to open the package and discover it was 8mm!? Has anyone else experienced difficulty obtaining a 6mm Mast pivot pin?

    Dave Barker

    To get the mast to sit back in the track, put something soft (cloth, sponge etc) in the gap in front at deck level, reach up high above your head and shove the mast forward. The pin is partly there to “lock in” the mast’s correctly tuned position, once you have found it.

    The whole tuning procedure is iterative, i.e. you gradually home in on the right setup, sometimes repeating a step at least once or twice. This flowchart (linked) may help to understand that aspect of the process.

    When you can’t get the pin into the track where you want it, use spacers between the pin and mast foot.

    The shrouds are not all that far aft of the mast, so the little pin also acts as a backstop to rule out the slight possibility of the mast slipping back.

    Remember to measure the rake with the rig tensioned (mid-setting). The shroud length is what dictates the rake, and the pivot pin position is what diagnoses the correctness (or otherwise) of your backstop pin position. That’s the tuning process in a nutshell.

    The Highfield lever offers coarse adjustments only – for finer tweaking you would need a muscle box for example (or a screwdriver and tension gauge…)

    An 8mm pin should be fine, but 6mm diameter 316 stainless round bar is readily available online.



    Ketchup 8819

    That is all very useful, I will give it a go over the weekend. Thank you for such a quick response!


    With a risk of  repeating what others wrote:

    The mast heel setting is actually not a setting, it follows from other settings. What you want is maximum play from a straight mast to a bent mast. The mast bend is limited by the pivot pin and holes. The pin must be in while racing to ensure everyone has the same play. None racers sometimes avoid the issue and just take the pin out. With a 6 mm pin the maximum movement at the pivot pin is 20 mm. (The mast and tabernacle holes are 16 mm max. so max movement is (16-6)+(16-6)=20). What you do with the heel setting is make sure you have this maximum play available. Hence you should be looking at the pivot holes while changing the mast bend. The mast pin should move free regardless of the amount of mast bend. The problem is that the heel position it is not a fixed location. When the mast rake and/or spreader settings change the heel, or rather the pivot hole play, should be re-adjusted.

    As Dave wrote: Adjust the heel position with average tension on and pull the mast forward by hand if need be. Also have the boom installed including its kicker to change the mast bend with the kicker. This requires the mainsail or a topping lift to keep the boom in the sailing position. This is important because you need the forward force on the mast at the pivot pin and there will also be a pulling force on the mast top through the leech or topping lift.  The aim of the setup is to get as close to sailing conditions as possible.

    Instead of moving the heel pin forward to where you can’t insert it, you could also insert a hardwood block and/or some pennies, or what ever else you find in your shed. In my old boat I had a piece of copper water pipe in it.

    I make my own pins by sawing a piece SS rod to size and drilling two holes in it. That is how it’s done by the builders as well.


    Ketchup 8819

    Thanks for the feedback Gents, although I couldn’t use it to fix.  At the recent Ullswater Gathering I took guidance from Mr Mellor and it became apparent that when I had replaced the genoa halyard I was mistaken in assuming it was a standard length, therefore I had to move the highfield lever up the mast and shorten the wire.  All is good now.

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