Latest News: Forums Technical removable outboard bracket

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  • #4253
    Hoggy
    Member

    Hello all,
    I know this is an old one but I would like to know if anyone can give me some direction on position with measurements for my bracket? Pictures would be nice as I like pictures. My wayfarer is the MK 2 model.I have purchased the bracket from boats and bits so I guess you know what type I am talking about (leaves a shoe on boat). Thanks in advance for your help. Oh by the way, the outbord is a 2HP yamaha short shaft.

    Cheers Hoggy.

    #9841
    Swiebertje
    Participant

    Have you tried this?

    #9842
    Hoggy
    Member

    Swiebertje,
    Thanks for your reply I did look through this string of relplies before but did not find what I was looking for. But his time I have found one where they stated measurements, so thanks for your help. 🙂

    Cheers,
    Hoggy.

    #9843
    tempest51
    Member

    Hoggy,

    Measure 2 or 3 times to be sure, stand back 2 paces, have a shot of Scotland’s finest, then drill your holes and push your bolts through 1 by 1, in turn. If you mess up, stand back 2 paces, have a shot of………

    #9845
    Hoggy
    Member

    Tempest51,
    If I mess it up there will not be enough of the old scottish stuff to console me. There might be a ceremonial fire on my drive though!! That would please the spouse I suppose. 😆

    Cheers,
    Hoggy.

    #9846
    tempest51
    Member

    Hoggy,

    I did mine 2 seasons ago. I favoured the port side and used loads of sikaflex between the shoe and transom and also between the backing plate and transom on the inside. Bolts only minimally tight to hold everything in place, wait 24 hours, then tighten fully. Clean up any squeezed out sikaflex straightaway. Everything worked great, but I had some of Scotland’s finest anyway! I use a Suzuki 2.5 4-stroke. Vroom vroom!

    #9849
    Hoggy
    Member

    Thanks for your pointers Tempest51, I will do as you suggest as I have used sikaflex before and found it to be good stuff. How did you decide where the right place was? Did you go with the instructions that came with the bracket and shoe?

    #9850
    tempest51
    Member

    Hoggy,

    Looking at the transom…. I placed the right side of the shoe 30cm from the centre line, and 13 cm up from the keel. I have a mk1 grp hull with plywood decking, so I had to cut the left side rear foam buoyancy out in order to clear the inside of the transom. I chose the port side simply to avoid the outboard handle getting caught up with any sheets. I find it better to steer with the tiller rather than the engine and have had no problems with the propeller chewing anything up, just be alert to ensure the rudder stays down all the time. I really only use it to take the family out on picnics, as I sail on the Thames mainly, and you have to negotiate the locks to go anywhere.

    #9851
    Hoggy
    Member

    Thanks again for your info Tempest51, I am only just starting to sail myself and I will only be using mine for day sailing. I completed the repainting of mine late into the start of the season last year so I hope to get some more in this season. I in tend to sail mine on the Thames but a lot further down than you sail, I am in the South End on Sea area. Hence my need for an outboard (just in case).

    Thanks again,
    Hoggy.

    #9852
    Swiebertje
    Participant

    Exact measures cannot be given because there are several tank constructions. My old 1970’s MK2 needed four bolts inside the tank but with more recent boats the two top bolts end up in the gutter between the transom and the tank top. Because of this, the shoe sits higher on the transom then on the old boat. Some boats have a partially re-enforced transom and you can’t get as far away from the center line as you may wish.

    Here is how I did it:
    1. Make a paper or cardboard template in the shape of the shoe with markings for the holes.

    2. Move it as far away from the center line as it will go, but first check for reinforcements in the transom. Keep it parallel to the rudder pintels (use the pintels as a reference).

    3. If you think you are in the right location, dril a small (3mm) pilot hole in one of the two lower bolt positions. This will connect the inside and outside measurements.

    4. Fit the template inside the tank so you get a pretty good idea where the holes will go.

    The reason you need to use one of the lower bolt holes as a pilot is the upper holes may end up too close to, or in between the gutter and the tank where they are hard to repair. The lower holes are much easier to reach inside the tank and are much easier to fix if need be.

    5. If the position wasn’t good, fix the pilot hole and drill a new one. Chances are the pilot hole will disappear behind the shoe and the backing plate and will be waterproofed by the Sikaflex. If not a 3 mm hole is easy to fix with some gel coat repair. Repeat from step 3.

    6. Check that the bolts and nuts fit either in the tank or in the gutter and can be reached by a wrench.

    7. The upper edge of the motor mount should be about the same height as the transom. Check there is sufficient space above the the bracket to mount the engine. Too low isn’t a problem, you can always use a higher motor mount but if the engine does not fit over the mount….

    8. Test fit the baking plate, if any, in the tank. Note that some older models have a strong piece of plywood glassed in the transom voiding the need for a backing plate.

    8. Once you are absolutely satisfied with the position of the holes, the plate and the shoe, drill the four holes using the template. For accuracy drill four 3 mm holes first, before drilling the final 8 mm bolt holes required by the B&B shoe. I drilled 10 mm holes to allow some play but more important, to allow the Sikaflex to get in the holes, next to the bolts.

    9. Mount as Tempest51 described with lots of Sikaflex. Tighten after it has been allowed to set for a few days. Compressing the Sikaflex makes a better seal. Excess Sikaflex can be removed (or modeled in to shape) with paper towels and White Spirit, Toluene or Xylene thinner. Bring a roll of kitchen paper to have a good supply of fresh paper towels and wear rubber gloves.

    Don’t bother to use an expensive piece of wood for the motor mount. When the motor ‘bites’ in to it you will find that it will get tatty real soon. The easiest approach is to replace it every so many years.
    Use plywood for a plank will break along the grain due to the motor vibrations and the forces involved. On my boat I use two pieces of 18 mm ply, glued together to make a 36 mm thick motor mount.
    I have made recesses for the motor’s wing bolts so the motor won’t come off easy if the bolts loosen due to the motor vibrations. Also they make a bolt lock more effective. If you lock the engine to the boat don’t forget the secure the bracket as well. For example by an eye on the transom and some SS-wire that goes on the same lock that locks the wing bolts.

    #9853
    Hoggy
    Member

    Swiebertje,
    Thanks for your advice (and very detailed it was). I will spend a good long time making sure of all possible issues as you say things can vary from model to model. I like the idea of using the template to size it all up.

    Thanks again for all the replies,
    Hoggy.

    #9921
    Hoggy
    Member

    Swiebertje,
    Thanks for your advise on this topic, I used your method of the template and it worked out fine. Prop is well clear and all seems to be well. I would like to say that membership is worth it for the forum alone. I am looking forward to see if it works as well as it looks. Thanks to Tempest51 for your help also.

    Thanks Again. 😀

    Hoggy.

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