Latest News: Forums Technical Proctor Boom Outhaul Upgrade

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  • #3833
    SeaHolly
    Member

    My current boom is an old Proctor 2520 section, and currently lacks an outhaul. Following some earlier advice, I am planning to rig up an in boom 4:1 outhaul system that will be led inboard.

    I am confident in my ability to replace the outboard boom end and rig up the various blocks and outhaul hook, but I am unsure how to approach cutting out the section of boom that will allow me to take the control line inboard and cleat off. Should I simply cut out a section of the bottom track, or attempt to mount some form of exit box (which will also require some cutting to be done)?

    Where cutting is required, how is this best done, leaving smooth edges that will cause least damage to the control line?

    Kind regards,

    #7513
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    I’m not sure about the cutting but I would think the sort of fitting that a spinnaker of jib halyard exits the mast with would work.

    #7514
    Bob Harland
    Participant

    Sounds like you plan to cleat the outhaul on the boom – as opposed to running dual control lines aft to the centre thwart which is how a racing boat would be fitted.

    There is quite a useful discussion here which if you have not seen is worth studying carefully;
    http://wayfarer.org.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=580&highlight=outhaul

    In the photo the white line is the boom outhaul, there is a small slot cut/drilled for the line to exit in front of the clamcleat. This was done by the rigger who supplied the spars – so they would have had the right tools for the job. You don’t need to worry too much about the line rubbing as it exits the boom section as the movement is quite small. Perhaps drill a line of holes close enough to make an oval and then file out to get a smooth oval – about 25x10mm should be enough. But you may have other tools that are better suited to cut this.

    I added a couple of photos to show how the line routes, and the slot cut in the underside of the boom.
    Perhaps Swiebertje’s arrangement is better – less friction with one less block.

    Hope that helps

    #7515
    SeaHolly
    Member

    Bob,

    Thanks for the helpful note and picture.

    I have returned to dinghy sailing in the last year after a 22 year gap and use my Wayfarer for club racing, but this is really just to get experience of handiling the boat so I can do more cruising with the family.

    I had already seen the thread you referred to, but I am yet to decide which route to adopt for the control line, but will probably aim to keep it simple for now and maybe to twin the controls to the thwart at a later date as my confidence in dealing with rigging upgrades improves.

    Time now to get the tools out!

    #7516
    Swiebertje
    Participant

    @SeaHolly wrote:

    ….. and maybe to twin the controls to the thwart at a later date ……

    Since the control line as shown in Bob’s picture, is near the mast it will never be out of reach, at least not to the crew. The block, that is in line with the cleat, allows the control line to be pulled from almost any position, even from the hiked position, provided the line is long enough.

    On my new boat I still have the outhaul control, as it came from the builder, on the boom similar to Bob’s. I never found a good enough reason to add the extra lines for dual (thwart) controls. Unlike the kicker, the outhaul isn’t adjusted often. Usually you set it once, depending on the wind conditions and never touch it again for the remainder of the day. Only when there is a serious weather change you may want to adjust it. Keep it simple 😉 .

    By the way, on my boat the outhaul is reversed from Bob’s. From clew to tack (from the rear end to the mast), the control line comes from the internal block, then exits through a hole in the bottom of the boom, then goes through a cleat and then through a block positioned about 4 or 5 inches aft of the mast. I have a clamCleat (brand name) that neatly fits over a drilled hole giving it a nice finish. I am not sure what type it is it may be a CL211MK1AN, I would need to check on my boat but its too cold right now.

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