Latest News: Forums Technical Painting Floorboards (well Soles, really)

  • This topic is empty.
Viewing 6 posts - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)
  • #4640

    I am treating Kez to some new floorboards, so I have bought some nice 9mm marine plywood and now I am contemplating the best treatment to ensure longevity, grip, longevity and resistance to collecting dirt, most of which are conflicting needs. As soon as the word “Marine” is printed on a tin, the price of the contents multiply by at least two.

    I have noted various ideas from previous threads about sprinkling sugar or sand into wet paint, I myself have used grippy deck paint from International and the like, that has the finish (and effect on the knees) of coarse sandpaper; I had to sand it down to reach an acceptable compromise between grip and wear on tear on my clothing. What are the thoughts on epoxy resin coating of the ply (and glass cloth lamination)?

    What I am hoping for is some suggestions of products that members have found effective, the sort of stuff found on the shelves of B&Q rather then P&B, to which I can add some sachets of granules (from International) to make mildly coarse but which can be rinsed down, that provide a protective coating to resist the damp atmosphere under the boards and under the boat-cover (yes I have a breathable cover and I leave the bailers and bungs open) and not require me to re-mortgage the house in order to buy. Oh and available in the relatively small quantities I need.

    Or is it a case that you get what you pay for and I should buy the best, most marine, products?

    Colin Parkstone

    When it comes down to floorboards, they do not cost that much for a sheet of ply but they would last a lot longer if protected well.

    First tip, round all the edges well, paint or epoxy will bond better to that kind of edging than a sharp square edge.

    If you don’t want to spend on coating the whole of the boards with epoxy, do the edges and holes for the turnbuckles which is where the water will get into the ply as its the end grain.

    Cheap ply is made up of large wide veneers which suck up water into the ply and rot it so sealing these edges is important.

    You will find that when using two pot poly paint it will melt the sugar into the paint, gloss paint just holds it and so has to be very dry and hard before you walk on it, else you may roll off the paint from the board face with your feet. When dry, cook in the house till use!

    You could use two pot to start then go to the nonslip after. B@Q do some international paint, give that a look!
    Is this the only paint your use on the boat, is it all GRP and what do you use on the centreboard and rudder? Could you use that on the boards.


    Warning – seriously mad wooden boat lover post. Total loss of perspective ahoy.

    I decided to do some new boards for Delphy last year and got some lovely ply from Robbins, on which I used epifanes varnish – bit pricey but good stuff.
    Did a few coats then masked out where I wanted grippiness to end – I have to confess to getting quite involved in creating nice “grip strips” like planks down the boards – and put a last extra coat on just these areas. Then spinkled sugar: this worked best there the varnish was beginning to set: it stippled the surface “just lovely” and washed off a treat when it was fully set. In a few places I was a bit too early with the sugar and it got a bit gummed into the varnish.

    result: Good grip without being abrasive. Bonny Boards. Happy boat.

    Overall what I learned which is probably transferrable: if you use a soluable grip-creator – like salt or sugar – you need the paint/varnish to be “skinned” just enough to be dimpled by the stuff you pour on, and set enough to not flow over it. Obviously the paint/varnish needs not to dissolve the salt/sugar. All I can say is it worked fine with epifanes varnish and sugar.

    all best all
    Boris – Delphy W6330


    I’ve used garage floor paint with some success on our training Wayfarers. Somebody reckoned it’s polyurethane ❓ , but it’s tough enough for our fresh-water location. Two coats of the “other” International on two coats of their metallic primer seems about right. I’m almost ashamed to admit that I use sand (play sand comes dry) for non-slip areas, but masking off the parts where it’s not required. Four teaspoons of sand mixed into a vending cup of paint and applied with a roller goes a long way. A bit crude perhaps, but effective. Doorstep paint (it’s a northern thing…) is durable and has non-slip stuff in it, but seems to come in red, red, or red.

    Has anybody tried any of the pre-coated “non slip” boards – sometimes known as wagon board – such as Wisa?

    And please can you tell me why some one of our Wayfarers has 13mm boards, as opposed to 9mm?


    You’d better use special “drummed” sand that you can get from your chandler or else beach sand for normal sand works like sandpaper and will damage your cloths and knees. Drumming the sand rounds the grains and takes away the sharpness. With beach sand the Sea has “drummed” the sand. (It is also the reason a mason cant use beach sand, it doesn’t stick). If you were to have a cement mixer available, you could drum your own sand I suppose.

    Colin Parkstone

    13mm thick floorboards, Do not bend when you walk or sleep on them. The weight is problem but with all your cookers and fridges you all have in a cruising boat its not really a problem is it!!! 😉
    Wisa board, it’s probably made of wood not suited to the marine trade and the glue may not be right for salt water. And the expense!

Viewing 6 posts - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.