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  • #3509

    Further to War and Peace I put on the intro section, please can anyone advise if an outboard can be added to a Wayfarer ( inherited a 4hp).




    Sure, I feel the best idea is to mount on a bracket on the port transom. This moves the outboard back of the main sheet and rudder both of which will tend to snag it you just hang on the transom.
    Point the outboard slightly off to port so that the boat goes straight lock it in place and use the normal rudder to stear. Not as manouverable as using the outboard but at least the rudder does not need removing.


    Thanks Erdles, i just need to work out how much i need to spend for a decent boat now, as i don’t have the time or tech ability to restore one.



    Hi Keg, we have recently purchased a second hand wayfarer (5746) and I am in the process of sorting out an outboard motor. I brought an outboard bracket from Ian Porter (based in Emsworth). Ian was so helpful and talked me through fixing the bracket, provided a few diagrams.

    The advice from Ian was to mount the bracket on the stb side (so that the outboard tiller was inboard) and as far away from the rudder as possible while still being able to get at least three of the fixing bolts through the wood that is laminated into the transom.

    On recomended size of outboard the tohatsu 3.5 was recommended (strong tides in Chichester harbour and some of the inlets).

    I have not fitted the bracket yet but I can let you know how it goes if your are interested?



    Couple of thoughts….It would pay to read the postings in the Cruising section too although I am sure Ian’s advice/diagrams are pretty definitive. What Dave Barker says is very true about boom ends getting very close or hitting the outboard when the engine is tilted so the prop is held out the water. My large Johnson outboard nearly gets clipped if I don’t release the kicker………..My Suzuki I used when I fitted the bracket is smaller and is well out the way whatever the tension on the kicker.
    The major issue is the prop not being able to hit the rudder blade. I tend to remove the rudder completely for relaxed motoring as I have had the rudder pop up from improperly cleated down position………and then you are into filler, sanding and varnish….

    Otherwise just offer up the outboard on its bracket with the rudder in the downposition and don’t drill until you are really sure.

    Dave Barker

    There’s quite a bit of information on the forum about motors now, but just a quick note to underline what I’ve said elsewhere, which is that you need to weigh up which of the controls are going to be most awkward if they are out of easy reach.

    Although it only needs to be opened or closed once every now and then, the fuel valve on my Yamaha 2.5 is right at the back of the engine, on the left side as you face backwards (i.e. the stbd side), and the gear lever is also on that side (although admittedly less far back, and bigger, therefore easier to feel for). I chose starboard mounting to favour access to the throttle, but in reality the throttle is well forward on the engine, so not difficult to reach whichever side the engine is mounted, yet not long enough by a long way to sit and hold like a tiller.

    In summary, I haven’t tried my engine mounted on a port-sided bracket, but I have a hunch that it might be a better solution…


    Dave and Dave,

    Thanks for the advice, there is no real replacement for experience. I am off the buy the motor today, the Tohatsu I think but Bill Mitchell is local and did a good piece in PBO on small motors so I will decide after I talk to him.

    Thanks again



    Many thanks to all,

    I have now found a boat and will hopefully be collecting it this week.

    Everyone I speak to seems to favour 3.5hp or below. Will the 4hp be too powerful?.

    Thanks, Keg ( or Tim)


    Keg wrote:
    >Everyone I speak to seems to favour 3.5hp or below. Will the 4hp be too powerful?

    I have a 4HP and I don’t find it too powerful (as long as the bracket, if used, is strong enough). The disadvantage is just the weight and size of the motor. Outboard size required all depends on the conditions and how fast you want to go. In flat water and light winds the boat is easily driven with little power, but as the wind and chop increase more power is needed. Those that only envisage using the motor in light winds will say that a small motor is fine, other will say choose one with more power. Also as the water gets rougher, the prop needs to be deeper.

    The most wind I have motored in so far is force 4/5 in “estuary” conditions, not the sea, where the 4HP transom mounted motor needed full throttle and cavitation of the prop was starting to be a problem.



    4 HP is about the maximum I would put on a Wayfarer. You don’t need the power and it weighs well over 20 kg. My Suzuki 2.2 weighs only 11 kg. It tows 2 other Wayfarers in under good conditions and brings me home in bad conditions.


    I have a Suzuki DT2.2 (2.2 hp) which fits nicely in the back locker. We use this at sea off West Coast of Scotland when no wind for sailing or just fishing. Pushes the boat along OK, though in strong wind and tide does struggle, but better than rowing, which I find very ineffective.
    Motor weighs about 12 Kg, so both size and weight are manageable for mounting/de-mounting at sea when going from sail to motor and vice-versa.


    I’ve attached an outboard bracket to our GRP boat, but it’s not quite as easy as you may think.

    One tip for marking on the outside of the transom the location of the wooden reinforcement plate is to put a powerful torch inside the buoyancy compartment and trace the shadow of the wood on the outside. If you fail to support the bracket on the wooden reinforcing, then you will be relying on the much weaket section of “pure” GRP.

    The next tip is to consider whether you want to be able to tilt the engine up to get the prop out of the water. This may restrict the range of positions for mounting the bracket.

    Finally, make sure that you do not mount it so high that the propellor has insufficient submergence.

    The job CAN be done, but it’s worth some measurement and a bit of thought before drilling the first hole.

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