Outboard Position

[Simon Edkins]

Hi

I have just taken deliver of of a new Suzuki 2.5 HP outboard for my 1963 Woody along with an outboard bracket from Seamark Nunn.

I’m interested in your views about the optimum positioning of the bracket. Which side and how high and how far out etc? Pros and Cons of having the throttle side on the rudder side or outside?

Thanks in advance.

Cheers

Simon

[Anonymous]

Hi Simon. After struggling to steer with the outboard for a while I now have the engine fixed on the port side, locked in a central position and steer with the rudder.  My outboard bracket is from Boats and Blitz, and has an extension arm that puts it well aft of the rudder so the engine doesn’t eat it even when steering to port.

I prefer to sit on the starboard side of any engine with a twist throttle as it just feels right to twist it anti-clockwise to throttle up by dropping my wrist, so that’s why I mount the engine to port.

Each however to their own.

Mike

[Andrew Morrice]

Hi Simon

Port.

Engine needs to be positioned so that the “plate” above the prop is going to be a few cm below the water surface.  (which should be level with the transom end of the keel if the boat is being sailed correctly!)

Most people have brackets putting the engine well aft of the main sheet bridle.  I found it easier to have the engine on the transom itself (on a protective plywood sleave) and move the bridle forward to halfway between the transom and the f’ard bulkhead of the rear tank.  The engine is closer to hand then, much easier to start and adjust.  However, I am in a very small minority on this!

You steer the boat with the rudder – ensure the engine is far enough out from the centreline to allow this.

Three other points on motoring

ALWAYS have the centre board at least 1/3 down when motoring.  I have once got myself myself a bleeding nightmare by forgetting this step – without some c/board the boat just doesn’t answer the helm properly particularly if there is any breeze.  Full centreboard is quite fine but the boat will very much swivel around it (good for tight spaces)

Remember to release the airlock on the cap – the engine dies after a few minutes otherwise.  Easily overlooked.  Go easy on that valve (I’m referring to your Suzuki 2.5 but I suspect the others are pretty much the same) – the screw can easily strip out the thread in the plastic cap.

Once last thing is we no longer bother to open the throttle more than 1/3 the way up – all you will get is quicker fuel consumption and more noise for precious little extra speed.

tootlepip

Boris W 6330 Delphy.

[Dave Barker]

Just one small consideration regarding bracket or no bracket. If you’re considering using a boat tent at any point, the bracket keeps the engine outside your tent at night (if the engine’s tilted up, e.g. in a drying mooring/anchorage).

[nickgiles]

We found that the standard bracket and engine mounting board (black plastic) held our Honda 2.3hp engine rather high up and it often snagged the mainsheet.  After consultation with Ralph Roberts I made a hardwood mounting board 40mm thick and 215mm high as opposed to the 265mm high plastic board and now have much less trouble. Ralph used laminated marine ply to give his board extra strength. Each to their own!  Good luck. Nick Giles W9922

 

 

[Andrew Morrice]

The Webmaster is dead right about the tent issue

there is a solution however which I have put in place to get round that particular issue!  my boom is supported by an A-frame that sits right  at the outer quarters, supported by strops that feed through the rear-deck drainage holes specially provided on the Mk1 for this very purpose.  That and draining the rear deck of course!!  The strops could either loop back to the legs of the frame, or in my boat they hook onto the bridle line as it makes its way accross outside of the transom.

Boris W6330.

[AUTHOR]

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