Welcome to the UKWA Home Page Forums Technical Outboard Mounting on Mk1 GRP

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    Having read all the posts I could find re outboards and mountings, I still don’t quite have the answer I am looking for. Can anybody offer some more specific advice?

    I sail my W in the Severn Estuary and Bristol Channel, with my 10 year old son, so an O/B is a must every trip. When we bought her, she came with a very solidly made wooden bracket – more like a box, that sits on the rudder pin with the rudder removed, and the O/B is mounted onto the outside edge of it. When set up, it works well, although an extension is needed to steer from anywhere but sitting virtually on the transom. The down side is that it is a right royal pain to swap rudder for outboard, involving taking the tiller and rudder out, going into the rear locker to get the motor and bracker out, then leaning over the back of the transom to fit the motor. It is not the kind of manouevre that you want to be doing in any sort of a hurry, or emergency situation – which (apart from loss of wind) is largely what I want the motor for.

    I have tried recently just mounting the motor directly onto the transom, using wooden blocks to pad it with. This is great for convenience- the other day my son pushed off and forgot to get in. While I floated off downstream with the fairly fast tide and no wind, it was easy enough to start the motor and go back for him. The down side is that the main sheet keeps getting caught around the motor when in the up position. I spent far too long last trip leaning towards the back of the boat unwrapping the main sheet from various parts of the motor!

    My solution (or so I thought) was going to be to bolt the woooden braket permanently in position to one side (port) of the rudder. This would get it safely away from the main sheet, still allowing enough sail with the motor raised. The problem is that there is very little access to the back of the boat from inside the locker due to what I presume are some bouyancy spaces, preventing access to the space where the motor bracket needs to be mounted to stay clear of the rudder.

    I have seen several outboard brackets for sale, of the rise and fall type, but can’t see how they would be mounted either – unless there is some way of ‘clamping’ onto the top of the tramsom – which doesn’t seem very safe to me.

    If anybody could help (lots of people must have solved this problem) I would appreciate any advice. Pictures/diagrams would be most welcome!

    Thanks in advance,



    Peter, there is a bracket available that has a leg that fits in to a socket fitted to the boat.
    Is it possible to remove the polystryrene and its retianing bits, fit the socket then replace it ? As for the main sheet, I have an additional main sheet attachment point about 18inches in from the end of the boom, this keeps the main sheet away from the engine when its raised. Hope this helps.


    Hi, just going same process although on mark 2. Not completed job yet, however this may help. check out bracket that fits in tapered shoe from boats n’ bits in Norfolk. Not cheap, just over £100 plus shipping, but a seriously secure piece of engineering leaving minimum weight permanently attached. Good quality. I have a false grp wall in the locker that was easily removed. Mine was just glass taped to a block of polystyrene fitted behind it in the rear third of the locker. I believe some boats either don’t have this at all, or have a wall that may be partially glassed in. The polysterene has now been cut out on the port side and preserved for refitting later. Doesn’t have to be that tidy a job – It will not be seen again once restored and will be just as bouyany if the tank is ever holed. Port side seems to be the recommendation for right handers to get the outboard handle in the right place for the common majority. Then a drilling sealing and bolting operation is required – Sikaflex for example for sealing. Positioning info is given with the above product – centre line of bracket 400mm from centre of boat, and top of bracket about 130mm below transom top. Other types of bracket will doubtless be different measurements. These measurements are stated as just a basic starting point and people are reminded about checking the arc of the rudder blade and any possible fouling of the engine or handle, particularly when tilted up. The consensus seems the be to offer up the whole shebang before drilling holes. Motor shafts are different lengths, etc. ON chooice of brackets, I didn’t really want to pay that much but didn’t feel the sprung lifting type were suitable although about half the price. Didn’t want such a big thing bolted to the boat all the time. I have seen a less well engineered, but doubtless effective bracket with a plate shoe rather than the substantial alloy casting of the above, but I haven’t been able to find a source. Now I’ve parted with the cash, I’m happy and impressed with the quality.

    Happy drilling – just measure many times first!


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