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- 30/01/2013 at 7:16 pm #4534nickgilesParticipant
When giving our Honda 2.3hp motor the once over prior to storage I was dismayed at the extent of the corosion around the carburetor drain screw, the carburetor bowl and bowl bolt. It made openingthe drain screw difficult. I suspect it may be due to electrolysis, the drain screw being brass, the bowl aluminium/alloy and the bolt steel. Fiddly place to clean up well prior to coating with inhibitor. Any ideas would be welcome.
The invitation to renew our insurance cover required a declaration that the motor would be secured to the boat by a “purpose manufactured antitheft device”. The motor retailer said that they sell a a lock(about £30) that fits over the two turn screws that secure the motor to the bracket. Alas our stand-off bracket is secured to the transom with a wing nut so presumably this has to be locked in some way as well, all very tedious and time consuming. However as small outboards are very portable and saleable perhaps one needs to take precautions.
LizzieB 992203/02/2013 at 9:05 am #11319Dave BevanMember
The invitation to renew our insurance cover required a declaration that the motor would be secured to the boat by a “purpose manufactured antitheft device”
What is a “purpose manufactured antitheft device”? Any locking device would fit this description, but I assume they mean something specific for the particular outboard you have.
We don’t leave our boat unattended with the outboard on the transom, but during transit, and sometimes when parked in dinghy parks etc, ours (2.5hp Suzuki) is wedged under the thwart in a padded bag and secured with a bicycle U lock and substantial cable around the thwart. Nothing will stop the determined thief, but it will hopefully deter the opportunist. The prevelence of cordless power-tools effectively means that any commited thief is more likely to damage the boat than try to deal with any anti-theft devices in situ.03/02/2013 at 10:03 am #11320SwiebertjeParticipant
The two wings of the mounting bolts of the Honda motor have holes that you can fit a padlock through. Any padlock will do, but I use one that is supposed to be corrosion resistant. This is a far cheaper solution then a steel cage that rattles around and needs a padlock anyway to secure it. To further secure the motor I have made recesses in the bracket. These prevent the motor from being removed even when the bolts are not taut.
As Nick observed, the padlock only secures the motor to the bracket. To secure the bracket I use a steel wire that runs from the padlock, through an eye on the transom and back to the padlock.
Obviously someone with a rebarcrusher would have no trouble stealing my motor but at least I have prevented the opportunist from borrowing my engine. The solution was OK-ed by my insurance agent whom I asked to have a look at it.04/02/2013 at 5:44 pm #11323Colin ParkstoneParticipant
Tell Us Bert, what is a rebarcrusher !!! Is that bolt croppers in the Uk !! 😕04/02/2013 at 10:54 pm #11324SwiebertjeParticipant
Whoops, I humbly apologise for using American slang on an English forum.
Other then that I don’t care if the thieves crush it or crop it, it is still stolen!
I shall now continue with my pronunciation exercises: “Tomatoes, Aluminium, kicker”….09/02/2013 at 4:37 pm #11332nickgilesParticipant
Many thanks for the helpful comments. The answer seems to be keep it simple and hope the deterent of a cable and padlock persuades those so inclined to look elsewhere for easier pickings. Anyone armed with barcrusher and/or angle grinder will probably take what they want regardless!
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