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I’m thinking of buying a Honda BF2.3 4-stroke motor for my GRP Mk1A.
I read somewhere that with the standard-shaft version on some types of dinghy, moving your weight forward can lift the prop out of the water.Is this a problem with Wayfarers, and would I be better off with the long-shaft version?
Hi Keith,
I have a BF2.3. Short shaft is best. In a dinghy weight distribution is bound to be important. If you stand on the foredeck the prop will come out of the water. Just whip your crew into action to re-distribute their weight.I have a standard shaft 3.3 hp Mariner and have just bought an outboard bracket for Boats & Bits (expensive but far cheaper than anything I could get made locally) I’m very pleased with the quality and impressed at the very quick delivery.
They give some guidance for fitting the bracket, 400mm from the rudder centre line and the top of the base plate 130mm down from top of transome. This places the top of the actual bracket approx 15mm above the top of the transome.
In an article in Wayfarer New Summer 2001 the bracket was positioned 90mm down form top of transome. The writer then found that his 2HP Honda was not deep enough in the water, he then changed to a long shaft version.
As usual Matt your comments make sense, with a dinghies moveable ballast you just adjust trim to suit. I’m just off to the garage to start cutting holes and will see how the positioning works out with motor and rudder in place.
Peter
W3035Matt, Peter, thanks for the advice. Problem is, I cruise solo so I don’t have a crew to move about!
My motor-pad was already fitted (by Porters) when I bought the boat from the original owner. I’ll measure where the pad is next time I’m at the boat, and I’ll get the relevant bracket dimensions from my local Honda dealer this week, then I can see how deep the prop centreline is.
When buying my outboard I was guided towards a two stroke on the grounds that you can invert them (not that you should) without oil getting into places it should not….and then the engine needing an expensive overhaul before it could be used again. Has this issue been resolved or is the solution to keep a 4 stroke motor on its outboard bracket all the time rather than storing in the aft locker (or wherever) when the prop could go above the engine?
I know 4 strokes are greener and just interested what others think.
(PS I realise this is a slightly different track for this posting but still significant if chosing an outboard.)
PS 2. When fitting my outboard pad I felt there was no substitute for offering up outboard attached to bracket to boat whilst rudder also mounted to ensure no possibility of contact between prop and rudder blade. Having gone round the boat park measuring the position of other peoples I realised there was quite some variety ……and different brands of outboard are different sizes even when standardised to short/standard and long shaft.Dave,
The oil problem remains – 4 strokes need to be stored correctly. Not sure if 2 strokes are available now since the emission regs came into force.
And there is nothing better than putting the thing in it’s rough place before any holes get drilled. I sometimes cogitate for days before plucking up courage to drill and screw (especially in the new deck).In answer to Dave Mac, the Honda 4-stroke has 2 lugs on one side and can safely be laid flat on that side without leaks. I haven’t decided yet whether to try storing it in the aft locker or on the floorboards.
My main reasons for choosing it were 1-quietness & 2-build quality.
Keith,
Don’t forget that the boat will not always be level.Does anyone have a view on the relative merits of port/starboard positioning of the bracket? Does port side mounting (as recommended by Boats ‘n’ Bits) with a port side throttle/tiller lever give a comfortable sitting position or just a cramped and unbalanced one?
However, would a starboard mounted bracket with a port-sided throttle be uncomfortable to reach from the side deck?
DB
Dave,
Doesn’t seem to make much difference. As mine has worked out with the bracket on the port side my new engine arm and throttle are on the port side too, but I can’t say it has been awkward ever.Dave
Mine is port-side mounted with port tiller lever and is not cramped. Rather my issue is that the standard tiller arm is not long enough and you have to stretch back over the aft locker to reach it from the side bench (while looking forward where you are going). To get over this I use a detachable extension and slip a metre or so length of plastic waste pipe over the tiller handle …..though this is not as rigid as it could be it works really well. You have to be quick and whip it off if doing any tight manoevering but the comfort is essential for any distance.
(To answer your question though obviously the tiller mounting on the starboard side of a port mounted engine would be even more of a stretch without an extension.)
cheers DaveKeith,
Did you get the short or the long shaft Honda 2.3 and does it work OK with the bracket? We are having the same discussion now having just fitted a bracket and aren’t sure whether the short or long shaft version would be best.
SandraSandra,
No need for a long shaft.Sandra, I haven’t bought the Honda yet, but the rearch I’ve done has convinced me the standard shaft is OK.
@sandra674 wrote:
Keith,
Did you get the short or the long shaft Honda 2.3 and does it work OK with the bracket? We are having the same discussion now having just fitted a bracket and aren’t sure whether the short or long shaft version would be best.
Sandra
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