Latest News: Forums Technical Mast step

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  • #4639
    waypadone
    Member

    Hello Farers, I have aquired a new mast step to replace the old “ally” one which was seriously coroded and had been tampered with, so replacement is neccessary. Problem is I don’t understand it’s function, [the new step that is], so I hope one of you experts will explain after I give a few details of the design.
    The length is 150 mm [6″] it is a moulding of good quality, 8 holes at 15mm crs for the cap head screws and a further three 5mm holes for clevis pins on the ends. One hole one end and two the other for the pins. What are these pins for???
    Pete Menear [Waypadone]

    #11810
    Davdor7038
    Member

    Hello, Pete, I take it you are referring to the stainless steel channel which fits under the tenon at the bottom of the mast.

    The 5mm clevis pins are there to act as a stop for the mast foot when the correct mast rake has been applied and tension has been applied to the genoa. Refer to the tuning guide available on the website for precise details. The idea is to set up the mast rake as per the mast tuning guide and then use the clevis pin as a backstop for the mast foot. The tensioned forestay will keep the top of the mast pulled forward and the clevis pin will keep the mast foot from going too far back. Remember, when the genoa is tensioned, the mast pin going through the tabernacle should be loose and not tight in any way.

    If, after setting up the correct mast rake, you find that there is a gap between the rear of the mast foot and the clevis pin, you can pack out the space with coins. I use 2-cent euro coins, which are a perfect fit for the width of the channel. These are held in place with good old duct tape.

    My particular mast foot or channel has holes for the 5mm clevis pins at regular intervals along the channel. I’d hazard a guess and say that you should put the end with 2 clevis pin holes at the rear, which should increase the chances of getting a smaller or no gap when the mast rake and tension has been correctly set.

    Others with more experience of these matters will hopefully advise further.

    Cheers, Davdor

    #11811
    waypadone
    Member

    Thanks Davdor, the step is a plastic moulding and with it are two stainless cap head screws with nylock nuts which fit into retaining hexagonal cavities, eight in number and at 15mm centres, to stop the nuts turning.These offer a good setting range, and as far as I can see the mast foot is pulled aft against the aftmost cap screw,[after setting] the for’d screw of lesser importance but helpfull when fitting the mast. That still leaves the mystry of the pins at each end. There is a small arrow at the single pin end which I think indicates for’d and so the end with two pin holes adjustment aft. I now wish I’d made a stainless step myself[which is the kind of thing I usually do] but I now have this thing and disinclined not to use it. Let’s see if someone can throw some light on it.
    Pete

    #11812
    Swiebertje
    Participant
    #11813
    Colin Parkstone
    Participant

    Machine screws for holding the mast heel ( Remember you can only use the aft machine screw to hold the mast heel in the Wayfarer Class when racing, must be able to lower the mast without having to remove a forward pin!) …. and the clevis pins for things like the kicker take off point if your not using the one on the mast and anything else that needs a fast point to anchor from.

    Not sure,and Seldon site seems not to say which way round you have the two and one pin end but your arrow theory sounds safe.

    Down side of this kind of heel is that you have little chance of getting the machine screws out when its inside the tabernacle, and so adjusting these screws is hard work but the 2cent method is used lots by most people.

    CP

    #11814
    waypadone
    Member

    Much obliged for your help Swiebertje and Colin.
    The more I learn about this particular mast step the more I kick myself for not making one up myself from stainless steel.
    Apart from replacing the “duff” step [big mistake], after having renewed the rotted ply packing piece with delrin and the securing pad below the layup with iroko into which the 50mm self tappers went [3 in all] everything is pretty good. Now the mystry of the clevis pins is sorted I can get on and do the mast setup.
    Concerning the pins however, at 5mm dia, held in a plastic body, I’d be inclined to apply force only in the horizontal plane such as a mustlebox, which was my original intention, I can’t think of anything else, but I’m not worried too much as I am now fixing up a cascade genoa tensioning system [vertical] which for cruising I feel will be o.k.
    The pins can stay in place and maybe come in usefull in an emergency.
    Thanks again, Pete {w7059]

    #11815
    Colin Parkstone
    Participant

    Remember Pete that stainless and alloy do not mix. The last pin holes in the new heel have been doubled up from the picture I have seen, maybe that is to help with the strength from a kicker and its angle. These pins do get used for kickers on many classes.
    Also remember to keep an eye on the height of the mast step and anything under it, you still have to get the pin through the mast and the tabernacle.
    CP

    #11816
    waypadone
    Member

    Thanks Colin, I’ve been very careful to insulate any parts that may contact each other, so no worries there. I don’y see any further problems. Pete

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