Keel Band Banjaxed

[Fundoctor]

Dear ‘Farers

I have a Mk2 and a problem with the keel band – the metal strip that runs along the keel and up to the tip of the bow. The strip is screwed onto/into the GRP by screws at ~150mm intervals. At the point where one of these screws attaches, the keel band has snapped vertically across and the screw popped out. My plan to fix this is to find a way of getting the screw to hold again. But having problems with this. I tried bigger screw but it just seemed to mash the fibreglass without holding. Then I epoxied over the hole and drilled a guidehole and again the screw did not hold. It is attaching to only 2-3mm of fibreglass. The positioning means it is not possible to attach a nut on the other side (save by training up a ferret or the like). So….what next ladies and gentlemen? Would a rawl (?sp) plug do it? Keen not to do damage as I try to make it good. At this point the keel band is curving a good bit and so is under tension to spring out.

Suggestions gratefully received

Trevor
Osprey 9002

[tempest51]

You didn’t mention if you mixed the epoxy with any filler? You need to enlarge the hole then fill with epoxy + hardener + filler (West Systems 406?). Go to West Systems site and read the masses of info there, make the effort to read it…believe me it works ! Rawlplugs hombre?

[admin]

That doesn’t look like a particularly vulnerable position when coming ashore on a rough beach, but I would buy a new length of aluminium band and replace from the stem-head down to where the keel starts to run straight.

But if you are determined to keep the original you could drill and countersink new holes in the keelband about 10mm from either side of the break and use new gnarly screws into virgin GRP to reattach the band ends. Mix colloidal silica with epoxy to the consistency of peanut butter to fill the old hole and dip the new screws into copious amounts of Sikaflex 291 before screwing the band back down. Leave overnight then use a light hammer to tap tap tap the ends of the two loose ends to get them to lay down.

[Colin Parkstone]

The problem with Wayfarer builders in the past is that they did not mould in a wood strip of wood down the length of the keel where any keel band screws were needing a screw fixing, so all you are left with is the GRP to screw into.

The best screw for a GRP fixing is a stainless steel self tapping screw with its fine thread. Also when you drill the pilot hole you should also countersink this hole so as to not let the fine thread brake the gel away from the hull and make a mess of your gelcoat.

The hole you have is going to be an open way into the tank for water and this being a closed area your not be to aware of the tank filling till your boat gets heavy, Beware!!

If the hull is thick ish in the stem area i would say fill this hole and try near to it with a new hole and fixing for the keelband.

CP

[Fundoctor]

Guys

Thanks for these replies. I had used filler with my epoxy so will try that first and see if I can get a purchase, then try new holes, then complete replacement. For the guide hole into epoxy/filler should it be nearly as wide as the screw or a much smaller as one would into wood?

Trev

[Colin Parkstone]

Work on the pilot hole being the size of the solid bit of any screw you use, the thread is the bit that holds the item in wood or grp.
And fix this screw in with more varnish around the screw before you screw it home in wood and epoxy in a grp fixing.
CP

[Fundoctor]

Thanks – will let you know how I got on – Trev

[Author]

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