Latest News: Forums Technical how strong is the c/b case in a World?

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  • #24364
    Andrew Morrice

    Our club has inherited a reasonable World called Wizzy through our “abandoned boat rules” .  The plan is to use it for training and I’m keen to promote the reputation of the class rather than have this be the typical reprehensible training wayfarer that so damages our image!.  The rig is a little woeful with no means of really tension the rig, though there is a functioning kicker and outhaul.  I wondered whether it was possible to rig up a pair of double blocks on the c/b case top as I have in my woodie.  it is a lower cost means of generating reasonable rig tension but I don’t want to crack or break the case top.  Anyone know if this can be done without purchasing a formal “muscle box” £90 – 100.  I’m trying to avoid novices amputing body parts in a highfield lever.

    Also the front tank is a pig to drain.  Any tips on that particular nightmare!!


    Bob Harland

    The GRP on its own is not strong enough to hold self tappers unless the load is very light.

    However Porter Brothers did have a practice of incorporating some backing pieces into the build at various points around the boat that commonly required fittings (Not sure about Moores). And the top of the centreboard case just aft of the tabernacle is one such place. On our boat we had the toe straps and some spinnaker halyard fittings.

    It was supposed to be ok to manage without a backing piece by pushing lots of epoxy filler through the pilot hole to strengthen the GRP, not sure sure I would happy to do this on something taking the jib halyard!

    Water in the front tank: this often came from the keel band fixings which were self tappers into the grp. After a while they work a bit loose and slowly water gets into the tank. Some sealant then reapply the screws should fix that.
    As I recall it should be possible to drain every thing from the stern bung, if your club boat does not have this it is worth fitting one. Is there an internal bung between the compartments as well???

    Hope that helps


    Ian Middlehurst

    I know the World quite well, but I don’t race so my comment on the rig may be a waste of valuable air.

    All the worlds I have had adjusters for the shrouds and then tension is via the forestay.  This may not be what you are looking for.

    But the hull tanks I do understand.  There are three seperate tanks, bow, the centreboard casing and the aft/side tanks. Only the bow and centre tank connect.

    The centreboard tank drains into the bow tank with a standard dinghy bung just in front of the mast.  The aft tank only, drains through the transom through a bung.  Yes the bow tank is a PITA.  One really needs an extra joint in one’s arm to get at it.  One problem that I have had, is leaving a World over winter bow down, water builds up on top of the bow tank and leaks through the centre 6in hatch into the tank.

    Another issue I had with one World was the previous owner being careless about putting screws into the hull.  To find out exactly where the leaks were, I fitted a dinghy bung into the back top edge of the bow tank, on the raised section. Then using a vacuum with an exhaust port, I duct taped a length of plastic hose to the vacuum hose.  The plastic pipe was chosen to be a push fit into the bung socket.  The positive pressure from the vacuum did not explode the hull, but it made it very easy to find the leaks.  That would work for the keel band screws if that was the problem.  Same procedure for the aft tank.  On my boat the problems were screws for a canvas shute inside the spinnaker “hole” and screws securing the transom flaps.




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