Latest News: Forums Technical Fastening to sidedecks

  • This topic is empty.
Viewing 6 posts - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)
  • #4580

    Before I start riving things apart, does the foam come out of the sides of an older Mk2 (’84)or is it glued up there?
    I’d like to fit backing plates and through-bolt cleats with lifters. The lifters are bored for three M5s. If I can’t get to the underside of the deck, could I get away withthree large self-tappers? The GRP seems to be about 3mm (maybe 3/16″in old money.
    Simply typing “get away with” makes me cringe, even though many fittings are just screwed into the glass these days.
    If the foam’s glued in, could I use the same technique as fastening to a foam-cored structure, or will the foam just crumble?

    Colin Parkstone

    Are you talking about the foam under that Grp containing sheet, the one screwed to the sidedeck moulding?

    If so it is not glued in, it is not structural, its just held in with that grp sheet it in a certain way like building blocks.

    Self tapping screws need a ply or wood block to screw into as the grp being 2mm or so thick will nor allow enough turns of the screws threads to bit it.
    Your get no bight into foam as you say, it has to be ply or something like.
    What are you bolting down on lifters, sounds like genoa or spi fittings which will need much support.


    OK, so I’ve got the screws out, with much cursing and slipping, but the panel doesn’t want to move. Have I missed some fastenings? What’s the technique with this?

    Colin Parkstone

    Is it stuck under the thwart area or do you have to bend it in the middle to free any lips at each end over the aft tank.
    Not done this for a while?


    Firstly,check again that you haven’t missed any screws. Even one will keep the panel from coming free.

    Secondly, as it is likely that as the panel hasn’t been moved in 30 years, it’s also likely that the 2 surfaces have practically bonded together and it will take quite a lot of working all along the edges to pop it free. Try using reasonably wide but quite thin plastic levers with tapered edges (file them down) to tap between the sidedeck and bouyancy panel and try to lever the panel out all along it’s length. Don’t use too narrow a lever as you will end up damaging the panels.
    If you get a lever to go in a little way in, leave it there to hold the surfaces away from each other and go further along the panel and use another lever and try to achieve the same thing and so on. Leaving each lever in as you go along increases the chances of the panel eventually going “POP”.

    If the panel appears to be freed, but still won’t move, look again to make sure you have removed all the retaining screws. Don’t force it too much or you will break something. Gradually, is the key.

    Best of luck and let us know how you get on.


    Well, er, yes. After lots of displacement activity; sailing other boats, talking about sailing, drinking tea, that sort of thing, I decided the time had come. About 2000 on a Wednesday evening , I whipped the cover back, determined to have the job done by sundown. The screws had come out with the maximum of grunting and sweating, a quarter-turn at a time. Those little plastic wingnut thingies are virtually welded to the screw after nearly 🙄 🙄 three decades. While I was head-down with a palette knife nicked from the kitchen, a horde of midges attacked with the ferocity of their Highland cousins, and that was all the excuse I needed…

    Gradually, Davdor said. Yes, that’s the way, and please don’t ask how the panel came out,it just did, eventually. The foam, in two long wedges, needs similar Zen-like patience, working it carefully fore’n’aft until it, too, lets go.
    Amazing, the muck that hides under the sidedecks, but there is a something glassed-in, presumably for stiffness.
    Being naturally cautious, I’m bolting the lifters through the deck and backing-pad. Perhaps it would be easier with the boat inverted at shoulder height. Gradually, gradually… 🙄

Viewing 6 posts - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.