- This topic is empty.
- 15/07/2007 at 8:44 pm #3543
Swapping from a non-reefing headsail furling system to a reefing system (with luff spar) presents a number of new demands on the boat. One aspect of this is the way the furling line is controlled.
On the non-reefing system the line is in effect an on/off switch for the headsail, and only during furling is the line briefly under tension.
By way of contrast, with the reefing furler the line has a more continuous role to play. When sailing with the genoa partially unfurled the furling line is always under tension, so the cleat must be 100% reliable.
On “Cockle” this means that I am going to upgrade the furling line (for extra strength) and I also want a more dependable cleating system than the cam cleat that I have previously used, as this is too easily released when under tension, for example by the furling line snagging on the kicker during a tack.
What cleating method have other people found to be convenient and reliable for control of the furling line on a reefing system?15/07/2007 at 9:52 pm #5556charles.ferrarMember
next time you’re at the club have a look at Topsy. This cleat works well, though it would perhaps be better if it was slightly further from the mast so it doesn’t get caught up with the chocks.16/07/2007 at 4:31 pm #5559
I had a peek this afternoon, Charles. It’s basically the same arrangement as the one I’m replacing, but with the cleat sited in a different place.
What I forgot to mention is that the system needs to work well in an anxious moment when sailing single-handed.
I’m drawn towards using a CL211 Mk2 Clamcleat with a CL815 keeper fitted to it. This should keep the line positively cleated or uncleated and looks much less vulnerable to accidental release than the cam cleat (such similar names!), after all that is the whole point of the keeper (see below).16/07/2007 at 9:07 pm #5564AnonymousInactive
I use a clamcleat, with the line then led through a ‘flip-flop’ block so I can pull from either side of the boat. Would a picture help?16/07/2007 at 9:39 pm #5566
Hi Matt, Yes, a picture might help.
I wondered about using a guide cage CL817 which enables a sideways pull to cleat the line. I would guess that this achieves more or less the same thing as the flip-flop block (although perhaps with a bit more friction?)17/07/2007 at 7:25 pm #5569AnonymousInactive
17/07/2007 at 11:12 pm #5572
Can you just help me orientate myself with this photo Matt? Which part of the boat are we seeing here? 😕18/07/2007 at 6:46 am #5573W10143Member
Rear slope of the CB Case – best place for the furler IMHO.
David18/07/2007 at 8:21 am #5574
Thanks David – it’s obvious now you’ve pointed it out…
I’ll have to have a complete re-think of control line strategy, as the Highfield lever is rapidly moving to the top of my list for replacement with a muscle box, which in turn needs space currrently occupied by kicker lines etc. etc.
Thanks for all replies so far.18/07/2007 at 5:14 pm #5575AnonymousInactive
Buy a boat and there is always something to fiddle with! And as my daughters used to say when faced with my Xmas list – if it’s small and stainless steel it’s expensive!
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.