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- 09/03/2011 at 11:59 am #4261AnonymousInactive
Having finished getting my buoyancy tanks sorted, (+6 mins for the rear!!!, only 1 min for the front), I discovered that my Centreboard needs some attention. The leading and trailing edges have nicks and dents in them and the tip needs a repair where it has taken some sort of impact.
Also the board was coated in what looked like oil paint which was very patchy in coverage. When I scraped that off, there was a further layer of glossy paint underneath which is much harder which I think may be the original paintwork. This has also worn away in places especially around the pivot point area. The Centreboard is made of timber underneath the paint.
Have read various threads on the forum and WIC site, but am still not quite sure how to proceed. Although the most recommended route is to strip right back to the wood, then Epoxy and Fibreglass board, I’d like to just get the board fit for this season and do a proper job at the end of the year. So what would be my best route/materials to seal the exposed wood, repair the various nicks/dents and then repaint the board. Thanks in advance for any replies. Dave Doran. MkII 7038.
PS. Thanks also to anyone who replied to my previous queries about Mast bend which helped sort out the lack thereof and suitable sealing material for the rear hatch.09/03/2011 at 1:31 pm #9895
For this season you probably need do no more than rub down the harder original paint and seal and prime well where it has been damaged,then paint it with a single pack paint. When time permits next winter you could strip off all the paint and start from scratch if you want to make sure the timber is in good order.
Dings and nicks are repaired using Boat Epoxy from Plastic Padding. After cleaning up the damaged area, stick some masking tape on one side of the board, over-lapping the edge, then lay on a generous helping of catalyzed filler and stick another piece of tape on the other side and use your fingers to kinda mould the filler to the right shape. You won’t get it right first time but a couple of episodes later you should be able to sand it down to a nice shape. If you are up to a little wood and metal-work the leading edge and tip could be protected by an aluminium or brass strip, screwed on and faired into the shape of the foil.
I have just done a Danish bush job on my centreboard; have a look at the WIT page penned I believe by a Dutchman who often contributes to this forum to be found at http://www.wayfarer-international.org/WIT/maint.repair.ref/CB.rudder/finishingCB.pdf The same article shows how to fit a stainless steel (very posh) edge protector to the foil.
If you would like to do your own Danish bush I could send you a chunk of Delrin rod (you can only buy it in lengths of 600mm or more so I have a bit left over). The advantage is that the bush prevents the bolt from pinching the centreboard through the case and if you get the sides of the bush turned up on a lathe (by a handy friend with a lathe in his garage), the faces are nice and square so water ingress is minimized even before you use the Grolsch washers. Also it is likely that the wood through which the old bolt passed has been saturated and dried a few times so is probably a bit second-hand, the bush allows you to drill the suspect wood away and replace it with epoxy and high-tech plastic.12/03/2011 at 8:18 am #9900
Sorry, I see the link did not transfer completely, here it is again.12/03/2011 at 8:23 am #9901
Nope that’s not working either, something to do with the website. Sorry
Follow the Link on the UKWA Home page to International Wayfarer then WIT and on the index find Centre BoArd Refinishing.12/03/2011 at 9:04 am #9902AnonymousInactive
Mike, thanks for that. I found the Page in the WIC. The internal bore of the pivot hole seems sound, to be honest. Thanks for the offer of the Delrin, but as I live in Ireland, I think the P+P would not be worth your while. I can probably get some over here anyway. I found some Epoxy which is ages old, but when I mixed up a trial batch, it went off ok, so I will probably seal the internal bore with that for the meantime. I presume I should prime the exposed timber on the side faces of the board where the underlying paint has been worn away. What would you recommend?. Thanks, Dave12/03/2011 at 9:52 am #9903SwiebertjeParticipant
Meanwhile I have improved on the technique by what I call the Danglish solution:
English: Drill large hole – Fill with glass epoxy mixture – Drill final Hole
Danish: Use bushing.
Danglish: Drill very large hole – Fill with glass epoxy mixture – Drill hole for bushing
See: WIT13/03/2011 at 4:04 pm #9905Colin ParkstoneParticipant
A couple of points,
The sides of the centreboard can be packed out to the thinkness of the box to take up the slackness in the area only inside the box, no making the board thicker all the way down.
If you do try and harden the nut on the pivet bolt to much without any spacers you can crack the grp box sides at the keel line.
Best to pack around the bolt hole on the plate to the thickness of the box.
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