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Hello
I have now decided to convert my boat to centre main , i know what thye setup should look like and how to do it etc. But i have a few questions on what hardwear i should buy on a budget . As my boat will not be raced or long distance cruised i have ecided that lovely harken gear would be wasted on me and would break an already broken bank , so could som one please advise me on what tyoe of block do i need eg size and if plain bearing will be ok , also could any one advise a buget ratchet block ? Thanks
For a low budget solution, follow the link given in this message: http://wayfarer.org.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=878&p=5290#p5290
Yes i have seen thaat link , but could i use somthing along the lines of this http://shop.pinbax.com/index.asp?selection=detailed&uid=33912&itemtitle=Single%20Stand%20up%20Block%20Size%204 because i never cleat the main when sailing also what size should the blocks on the boom and bridal / mainsheet track ?
@wayfarer5560 wrote:
Yes i have seen thaat link , but could i use somthing along the lines of this http://shop.pinbax.com/index.asp?selection=detailed&uid=33912&itemtitle=Single%20Stand%20up%20Block%20Size%204 because i never cleat the main when sailing also what size should the blocks on the boom and bridal / mainsheet track ?
Sure, I used to have one exactly like that. And because it utterly failed on me while sailing the Kattegat, I never ever want to have anything from Barton on my boat again.
@wayfarer5560 wrote:
Oh i am sorry to hear that , but would somthing like that (not from barton) be ok ?
LOL
Really keen racers don’t use a cleat, they want to feel the pull of the sail at all times. A swivel cleat would only be expensive ballast and for that reason top racers tend to use a ratchet block only. At the very least use blocks with ball bearings so the friction is minimized and the “feel” is optimized. Without a cleat consider using a (auto) ratchet block if you intend to sail in strong winds. A ratchet block takes some of the load off your hands. The ratchet in a normal ratchet block has to be switched on or off by hand, an auto ratchet block kicks in automatically above a factory preset load.
If you are on a tight budget, why not visit some of the countless boat jumbles that are held this time of the year? AFAIK almost every club has one.
Another view from a racer,
I like and use a mainsheet swivel jammer with cleat and also a on/off ratchet block ?Why? Well a cleat is very usefull to put the main in when I pull up the spinaker as i use two hands to help the crew and hoist so no way do i let the main out to do nothing.
The on / off type ratchet is the only one I use on the main and the genoa sheets.
I have had two types of auto,s and both failed on me and did not last too long for the money, so on/off for me only.
Also in light winds the ratchet when on not only holds the sheets when i dont want them too but that clicking drives me mader than a box of frogs,so i turn that noise off till we need the help!Ebay sometimes has Harken gear forsale !
C P
True words Collin and don’t forget that a jammer also allows us to open a beer can occasionally 😆
Thanks for your help guys ,
I think i will opt for the on/off ratchet with no jammer , also could you suggest a size for the blocks on the boom ? would 45mm be the right sort of size ?You could go down to a 26mm as long as your mainsheet rope runs freely in it?
prob a 8mm rope is the biggest for that block.C P
If you check the manufacturers website they will give maximum rope diametre for the sheave size;
e.g. Harken Hexaratchets 57mm sheave gives max rope 10mm
That’s a maximum rope diametre, personally I find these blocks perform well on dia 8mm rope.
bobJust one more quick question , what swl should i need for the blocks on the boom and the final block on the swivel base ? 200kg ?
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