Also you can see from this picture, the rudder pintle was not attached. The previous owner kindly gave me some screws to attach it – however he neglected to tell me the remnants of the old screws were still in the transom. I had to carefully drill them out.
On both my Wayfarers the rudder fittings have been through-bolted. If I were you I would open up the rear hatch to allow access inside the buoyancy compartment, after all you will be more confident once you have seen what’s hiding inside. This will allow you to inspect the piece of wood receiving the screws, or preferably though-bolt the rudder fittings instead.
You could probably achieve this by installing a small inspection hatch rather than reinstating the large original aft hatch which can be difficult to seal up again.
This bit on the hull appears to be seperating. On the other side, it’s been taped up with a sort of fabric tape. Should I be worried about this?
I think your picture shows a bilge runner. I presume the fabric tape is glass cloth? That would be a fairly strong way of mending this area, although you should use epoxy resin with it, not polyester, for this job. Alternatively you could use some sort of thickened epoxy to fill in the gap, but that might not be flexible enough.
I understand this is called the tabernacle. As you can see, it’s a bit rotten. In fact, when I went to test rig the boat, the act of pushing the mast into here actually caused the lower half on the left side to completely fall out. The mast still seems secure, but I would like to fix this. Is this potentially a DIY job with some marine ply?
I thnk it’s more common for the tabernacle to be made from mahogany- I might be wary of using ply for this job.
The boat has taken a little damage at the front where it’s rubbed on the winch. Is there a standard way of avoiding this?
Usually a rubber snubbing block would be fitted to the trailer to prevent contact with the winch.
This might sound a daft question but how should I get the boat off the trailer in order to fix the trailer? Without actually putting it in the water?
It is almost completely impossible to do this on your own without damaging yourself or your boat! I have wasted too much time trying to do it that way. If you have two or three helpers it is pretty easy. Support the aft end of the boat on something sturdy (piles of tyres, stack of palletes, etc), then your squad of helpers lifts the bow, and one person pulls the trailer free from underneath.
I have a number of rigging questions – this boat is nothing like everything I have sailed before. Whilst I learned on a Wayfarer, it was a World with very different fittings etc. I am now going to ask some possibly daft questions. Apologies in advance.
There’s more than one way to skin a cat 🙂 I have sailed on a few Wayfarers and they have all been rigged in different ways. You just need to find a way that works for you. Often, simpler is better. My first Wayfarer had split controls and all manner of ways of controlling sail shape; but as I am not a racer I now rig the boat for simplicity and ease of use instead.
Forestay – the wire part of the forestay is not enough to reach the bow. There is a rope attached to it which makes it long enough. This helps when raising the mast (which is very difficult on my own – is there a trick to this?) Is this right? Basically it means if the mast is up without a foresail attached so you pull on the jib halyard, the mast is slightly dubiously held up by a this wire/rope combination.
You can quite cheaply (about £10) replace the forestay if you have doubts about it. But it needs to be a little short of the bow so that the piece of rope can be used to create a lanyard, allowing you to tension the rig a little. If your jib halyard does not have a lever or some other system to achieve high tension, you probably would want a fairly taut forestay so a lanyard would be essential.
Cleats – These two cleats are the only ones at this part of the boat. I’m used to every line having it’s own jam cleat. I am alright to use these two old-fashioned cleats for main and jib halyard, kicker, and downhaul?
It’s fairly cheap and easy to add some more cleats. I have seen cleats added to the tabernacle, the centreboard casing, the thwart, and the mast, so plenty of options depednign on how you prefer to lead the lines. Personally I think cleats on the mast are the simplest and strongest way of doing things.
Outhaul – this is where I am completely stumped…. there is a jam cleat about halfway along the boom, so I am assuming that is for the outhaul. However there is no pulley on the end of the boom. The third picture above shows that there used to be something attached to the boom at the outboard end that has rusted off – was this a pulley? If so, where can I get a replacement?
Sometimes the pulleys seize up or break off completely (this happened to my old round section boom). I imagine you could drill a hole and fit a shackle, allowing a new block to be installed (this is what I did). Or you could keep things simple and just lash up the outhaul, and accept that you will not be able to change its tension whilst underway- unless you are racing I doubt you will find any disadvantage.
Best of luck with your boat 🙂